1835.] IQUIQUE.--SALTPETRE-WORKS. 363 



pounds sterling, was sent to France and England. It is princi- 

 pally used as a manure and in the manufacture of nitric acid : owing 

 to its deliquescent property it will not serve for gunpowder. For- 

 merly there were two exceedingly rich silver-mines in this neigh- 

 bourhood, but their produce is now very small. 



Our arrival in the offing caused some little apprehension. Peru 

 was in a state of anarchy ; and each party having demanded a 

 contribution, the poor town of Iquique was in tribulation, think- 

 ing the evil hour was come. The people had also their domestic 

 troubles ; a short time before, three French carpenters had broken 

 open, during the same night, the two churches, and stolen all the 

 plate : one of the robbers, however, subsequently confessed, and 

 the plate was recovered. The convicts were sent to Arequipa, 

 which, though the capital of this province, is two hundred leagues 

 distant ; the government there thought it a pity to punish such 

 useful workmen, who could make all sorts of furniture ; and 

 accordingly liberated them. Things being in this state, the 

 churches were again broken open, but this time the plate was not 

 recovered. The inhabitants became dreadfully enraged, and de- 

 claring that none but heretics would thus " eat God Almighty," 

 proceeded to torture some Englishmen, with the intention of 

 afterwards shooting them. At last the authorities interfered, 

 and peace was established. 



\3th. — In the morning I started for the saltpetre-works, a dis- 

 tance of fourteen leagues. Having ascended the steep coast- 

 mountains by a zigzag sandy track, we soon came in view of the 

 mines of Guantajaya and St. Rosa. These two small villages are 

 placed at the very mouths of the mines ; and being perched up on 

 hills, they had a still more unnatural and desolate appearance 

 than the town of Iquique. We did not reach the saltpetre-works 

 till after sunset, having ridden all day across an undulating coun- 

 try, a complete and utter desert. The road was strewed with the 

 bon ?s and dried skins of the many beasts of burden which had 

 perished on it from fatigue. Excepting th Q Vultur aura, which 

 preys on the carcasses, I saw neither bird, quadruped, reptile, nor 

 insect. On the coast-mountains, at the height of about 2000 

 feet, where during this season the clouds generally hang, a very 

 few cacti were growing in the clefts of rock ; and the loose sand 

 was strewed over with a lichen, which lies on the surface quite 



