1836.J EXCURSION TO W AIM ATE. 421 



the old Tahitian chief Utamme. No doubt the extraordinary 

 manner in which tattooing- is here practised, gives a disagreeables 

 expression to their countenances. The complicated but symme- 

 trical figures covering the whole face, puzzle and mislead an 

 unaccustomed eye : it is moreover probable^ that the deep inci- 

 sions, by destroying the play of the superficial muscles, give an 

 air of rigid inflexibility. But, besides this, there is a twinkling 

 in the eye, which cannot indicate any thing but cunning and 

 ferocity. Their figures are tall and bulky ; but not comparable 

 in elegance with those of the working-classes in Tahiti. 



Both their persons and houses are filthily dirty and offensive : 

 the idea of washing either their bodies or their clothes never 

 seems to enter their heads. I saw a chief, who was wearing a 

 shirt black and matted with filth, and when asked how it came 

 to be so dirty, he replied, with surprise, " Do not you see it is 

 an old one?" Some of the men have shirts; but the common 

 dress is one or two large blankets, generally black with dirt, 

 which are thrown over their shoulders in a very inconvenient and 

 awkward fashion. A few of the principal chiefs have decent suits 

 of English clothes ; but these are only worn on great occasions. 



December 23rd. — At a place called Waimate, about fifteen 

 miles from the Bay of Islands, and midway between the eastern 

 and western coasts, the missionaries have purchased some land 

 for agricultural purposes. I had been introduced to the Rev. 

 W. Williams, who, upon my expressing a wish, invited me to 

 pay him a visit there. Mr. Bushby, the British resident, offered 

 to take me in his boat by a creek, where I should see a pretty 

 waterfall, and by which means my walk would be shortened. He 

 likewise procured for me a guide. Upon asking a neighbouring 

 chief to recommend a man, the chief himself offered to go ; but 

 his ignorance of the value of money was so complete, that at 

 first he asked how many pounds I would give him, but after- 

 wards was well contented with two dollars. When I showed 

 the chief a very small bundle, which I wanted carried, it be- 

 came absolutely necessary for him to take a slave. These feel- 

 ings of pride are beginning to wear away ; but formerly a leading 

 man would sooner have died, than undergone the indignity of 

 carrying the smallest burden. My companion was a light active 

 man, dressed in a dirty blanket, and with his face complete!/ 



