THE WOOLLEN INDUSTRY IN IRELAND. 397- 



industry was threatened with a serious decHne. The younger generation 

 was not taking it up, the looms were antiquated and unserviceable, and 

 though then, as now, the colouring and patterns of the cloth showed much 

 artistic feeUng, there were many technical defects apparent in the product, 

 especially the " shading " of the cloth, i.e., bars of darker or lighter colour- 

 running across the web owing to unevenness of texture or of spinning. 

 The principal measures recommended were as follows : (i) The introduction 

 of improved looms ; (2) provision for instruction in the use of them ; (3) 

 inspection and stamping of the cloth by a competent judge to be appointed 

 by the Congested Districts Board, with a small bonus or prize to be paid for 

 all webs of first-rate quality ; (4) the establishment of carding machinery 

 so as to get rid of the extremely toilsome and lengthy process of teasing and 

 carding large quantities of wool by hand. With the exception of the last,, 

 all these recommendations were immediately carried into effect. At the 

 request of the Irish Industries Association, Mr. W^ J. D. Walker (now 

 Inspector of Industries under the Congested Districts Board), devised, after 

 many experiments, a strong and simple form of hand-loom with fly shuttle 

 and automatic take-up motion, which could be delivered in Donegal for a 

 sum of £6. Loans were granted by the Board, repayable in six half-yearly 

 instalments, to weavers who wished to adopt these looms, which were exhi- 

 bited in operation at Ardara and Carrick. With one of these looms it was. 

 possible to weave twenty to twenty-five yards of cloth in a day — they have- 

 indeed been known to do as much as forty yards — as against eight to twelve 

 done by the old looms. They were rapidly taken up by the people and 

 have now almost dispossessed the old-fashioned looms throughout the 

 South Donegal weaving district. Loans for spinning wheels were granted 

 on similar terms. The following instructions were drawn up, printed on 

 cards suitable for hanging up on the wall, and circulated by the hundred 

 among the people who came in to sell cloth at the monthly fairs : — 



" Makers of Homespun Cloth in South Donegal are strongly urged to attend 

 to the following instructions, both in order to obtain a good price for their 

 Webs and to extend and improve the industry. They are reminded that while 

 every good Web sent out helps to spread the reputation of Donegal Cloth and 

 to increase the demand, every inferior Web has the contrary effect, and helps 

 to spoil the future market even for good cloths. Particular attention is- 

 required for providing hard wearing cloth, without which the Donegal Industry 

 will certainly decline. 



INSTRUCTIONS. 



Wool should be well scoured before Dyeing. 

 Mix and card the wool with great care so as to avoid shading. 

 Avoid all Aniline, and other shop dyes, except Indigo, Madder and Log- 

 wood. 

 Spin both Weft and Warp on the Small Wheel. Lei ike IVeft be firmly- 

 twisted, to ensure good 7veur. Weft and Warp should be equal in Weight 

 and Twist. 

 Make the Cloth at least 34 inches wide in Reed. 

 For Twills, use no Reed coarser than a 16 Reed, 2 in Split, or an 11 Reed,, 



3 in Split, with 20 Picks of Weft to the inch. 

 For Plains, use the same Reed with 18 Picks of Weft to the inch. 

 Use good Olive oil, and clean the Web with Ammonia. 



