THE IRISH LEATHER AND BOOT-MAKING INDUSTRY. 409> 



day, but the output is not very large. So far as the North is concerned, the 

 tanneries showed signs of decay soon after the Crimean war. In 

 their hey-day they produced leather from Irish and South American hides, 

 chiefly for home consumption. 



A notable feature in the manufacture of leather was that the production, 

 on the one hand of sole leather, and on the other hand of upper and harness 

 leathers was as a rule a distinct undertaking. The two last-named classes 

 were usually manufactured side by side, as the general manipulation of 

 both is, in a great measure, similar, and a factory turning out one descrip- 

 tion could with advantage produce the other. The same conditions prevail 

 to-day, and outside of Ireland it is an unusual thing to find sole, upper and 

 harness leather manufactured by the same firm. Another fact worthy of 

 notice is the isolation of currying — or the finishing processes. Outside of 

 Ireland the currying is. in many cases, carried on by firms other than 

 tanners. The reason for this is that the operations necessary after the 

 tanning is complete are numerous and complex. In dealing with some 

 classes of upper and many other leathers, such for instance as bag leathers' 

 and enamelled or patent goods, the finishing operations are so exceedingly 

 technical that special expert knowledge and the use of numerous machines 

 are necessary for their successful completion, and this is generally regarded 

 as quite outside the tanner's calling. On the other hand, those who devote 

 themselves to the finishing or " currying " processes may know nothing' 

 whatever about the tanning, which can, to a large extent, be carried on with 

 the aid of unskilled labour. 



Thirty years ago a very large amount of capital was sunk in the tanning" 

 industry in Ireland, which was the means of giving a great deal of employ- 

 ment throughout the country. None but men of capital were able to 

 embark in this trade, as the long period covered by the various stages of 

 manufacture, particularly in the case of sole leather, made large capital an 

 essential condition. The same remarks are still applicable to the industry. 



As already mentioned, Irish leather was noted for its excellence, which 

 was to be attributed to the superior methods of manufacture. The tanning 

 materials used were those which even now, in the light of the most 

 searching scientific examination, are considered the best procurable. The 

 tanning was done with oak bark, cork tree bark, and valonia, mostly the- 

 two first named. Cargoes of cork tree bark were imported from Algeria,, 

 and sufficient oak bark was easily procurable in various parts of Ireland.. 

 The tannin extracted from oak and cork tree barks was employed in the pro- 

 duction of upper and harness leathers, and these two combined with valonia, 

 which is the cup of the acorn brought from the vast oak forests of Asia 

 Minor, and which has, for many years, been imported largely into these 

 countries, were the materials with which most of the sole leathers were 

 tanned. Sumach from Palermo in Sicily was used with calf skins. Of 

 late years much scientific research has been devoted to the leather indus- 

 tries, and several new tanning materials of considerable value have been 

 placed at the tanner's disposal, which with improved manipulation of the 

 hides in course of manufacture and the aid of more machinery, has consider- 

 ably lessened the time employed and lowered the cost of production. Stiff 

 the tanning materials above mentioned are at the present day in universal 

 use. though in many cases in combination with cheaper substitutes. 



A.bout 1870 the manufacture of boots and shoes in Ireland was an im- 

 portant industry, and gave an immense amount of labour, not only in the 



