THE MODERN IRISH LACE INDUSTRY. 427 



upon the idea which one so often sees in Brussels laces, and which has per- 

 haps become a little tiresome from its too frequent repetition ; that is, a 

 separate conventional border in which fillings are introduced, surmounted by 

 sprays or garlands of leaves and flowers. I think a certain stiffness of 

 treatment exists where the curves above the three flowers in the border are 

 attached to the curves of the conventional ornament. In Limerick run- 

 work, there is always a squareness of form which should be taken into 

 account in designing for it ; and forms which depend for effect upon the 

 beauty of their curves are likely to suffer in their translation into run lace. 

 The garlands of leaves and flowers are well arranged, and work satis- 

 factorily. 



Carrickmacross lace is made at the Bath and Shirley School, Carrickma- 

 cross, at Crossmaglen, and the surrounding districts. 

 Carrickmacross It is of two kinds, " applique " and " guipure." It is 

 Lace. not a true lace, as the work, which in needle-point 



would be called the " tight-work," and which is made 

 with the needle, consists, in Carrickmacross lace, of cambric. The ground, 

 also, where it is " applique " is a net ground. Very pleasing effects, how- 

 ever, are obtained l3y the use of needle-point filhngs, brides, or ties, etc. 

 Combinations of guipure and applique varieties have been tried with com- 

 siderable success. 



Fig. 15 is an example of old Carrickmacross applique on net. The first 

 thing that strikes one is the shortness of the repeat, which is, as I before 

 stated, a characteristic of machine-made lace, and results in monotony. 

 The edge is simple, made up of a series of small petals, placed side by side. 

 Observe the absence of construction in the pattern, which consists of one 

 large three-lobed leaf, joined to a spray containing leaves of a quite dif- 

 ferent character. There are also three detached flowers which apparently 

 have nothing to do with the spray nor with one another. The practice of 

 cutting away the centre of the leaf and inserting a filling was very much in 

 vogue with the Carrickmacross lace-makers in former days. I think it was 

 most objectionable ; no doubt it arose from a desire to give relief to the 

 leaf by making a cut showing the place of the midrib ; this was quite per- 

 missible, but workers who knew nothing about the midrib of the leaf, its 

 position or shape, cut avv'ay the surface of the leaf until a mere fringe of 

 cam-bric was left, and the leaves presented the appearance of having been 

 eaten away in the centres. 



A considerable improvement has, however, taken place, as will be seen by 

 reference to Fig. 16, two lappet ends of modern applique. The design and 

 workmanship of these are admirable ; you can notice the graceful climbing 

 arrangement of the ornament constructed for a surface which is to hang 

 v^ertically. The midrib of the leaf is better expressed than m the pre- 

 •ceding example, less of the surface has been cut away. The design is based 

 upon the arrangement which is seen in many of the old lappets of the 

 •eighteenth century. Richness is obtained by using the fillings in panels 

 formed by the ornament, and monotony is prevented by the alternation of 

 the fillings. Observe the good drawing of the flowers and leaves, and the 

 well rendered curves of the stems. This is particularly noticeable in the 

 right-hand lappet, at the bottom of which a well drawn spray reflects great 

 credit upon both designer and worker. 



Fig. 17 represents a portion of a border of modern Carrickmacross 

 guipure. In this lace, portions of the cambric and net are completely cut 



