POT CULTURE OF LILIES 81 



The Cape bulbs that reach here in spring are valued 

 for late flowering. After potting they can be kept alto- 

 gether out of doors, as by the time the shoots appear above 

 the soil, the frosts will be over. 



L. longiflorum is very liable to be attacked by Aphides 

 or green fly, which, owing to their habit of collecting in 

 the tips of the growing stems, often greatly injure the 

 young buds before they are detected. 



Under glass, fumigation, or, much better still, vaporis- 

 ing with the X. L. Vaporiser, will destroy the pest, but 

 when growing out of doors they must be syringed with 

 tobacco water, or one of the various insecticides. Tobacco 

 powder, too, dusted into the crowns will keep the insects 

 in check. 



L. rubellum needs the same treatment as L.japonicum 

 (Krameri), which it much resembles. It is, however, not 

 so liable to perish after flowering in pots. 



L. speciosum. This is grown more largely as a pot 

 plant than any other Lily excepting L. longiflorum. Its 

 special value is for the greenhouse during the early 

 summer and until it flowers naturally in the open air. 

 It is altogether a satisfactory Lily for pots, as it may be 

 kept in pots and flowered year after year without much 

 trouble. Moreover, it is seldom attacked by disease or 

 insect pests. 



The bulbs from Holland reach this country about the 

 end of October, and from Japan about the end or 

 beginning of the year. They may be kept in a dormant 

 condition by placing them in a moderately dry soil or 

 sand in a frost-proof shed or cellar, and by thus retard- 

 ing them, the grower is enabled to obtain a later suc- 

 cession of flowers than if the bulbs are started into 

 growth as soon as received in December or January. 



For early flowering it is best to pot permanently in 

 October and November, and as the bulb scales are not 

 so liable to decay as in L. auratum, there is no need to 



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