112 WANDERINGS IN SOUTH AMERICA. 



at them through a glass, the summit of the southern one 

 appeared crowned with bushes. The one to the north was 

 quite bare. The Indians have it from their ancestors 

 that they are the abode of an evil genius, and they pass in 

 the river below with a reverential awe. 



In about seven hours from these stupendous sons of the 

 hill, you leave the Essequibo, and enter the river Apoura- 

 poura, which falls into it from the south. The Apoura- 

 poura is nearly one-third the size of the Demerara at 

 Stabroek. For two days you see nothing but level ground, 

 richly clothed in timber. You leave the Siparouni to the 

 right hand, and on the third day come to a little hill. The 

 Indians have cleared about an acre of ground on it, and 

 erected a temporary shed. If it be not intended for pro- 

 vision-ground alone, perhaps the next white man who 

 travels through these remote wilds will find an Indian 

 settlement here. 



Two days after leaving this, you get to a rising ground 

 on the western bank, where stands a single hut ; and about 

 half a mile in the forest there are a few more ; some of 

 them square, and some round with spiral roots. 



Here the fish called Pacou is very plentiful : it is 

 perhaps the fattest and most delicious fish in Guiana. It 

 does not take the hook, but the Indians decoy it to the 

 surface of the water by means of the seeds of the Crab- 

 wood-tree, and then shoot it with an arrow. 



You are now within the borders of Macoushia, inhabited 

 by a different tribe of people, called Macoushi Indians ; 

 uncommonly dexterous in the use of the blow-pipe, and 

 famous for their skill in preparing the deadly vegetable 

 poison, commonly called Wourali. 



It is from this country that those beautiful parroquets 

 named Kessi-kessi are procured. Here the crystal moun- 

 tains are found ; and here the three different species of the 



