NOTE-BOOK OF A NATURALIST. 269 



basilic ; la cuisson separe la chair des os. Le bouillon passe an 

 travel's d'lme serviette, et claritie' avec des blancs d'ceufs ; faire 

 bouillir, rediiire, ajouter du vin de Madere ; la inoitie d'une tete 

 de veau, echaudce de la veille, desossce, cuite dans un blauc, 

 coupee par petits raorceaux ; dans le bouillon, vin de Madere ; 

 poivre de cayenne, de kari ; dans le potage, des morceaux de veau ; 

 jaunes d'ceufs frais, durcis, a I'instant du service. 



Now for the Matures emiiloyees -par Viarcl : — 



Tranches de bceuf, parure de veau, poule ou parure de volaille, 

 inoitie consomme et moitie blond de veau, carottes, oiguons, cloux 

 de girofle, dans une marmite ; moitie de tete de veau, degorgee et 

 blanchie, coupee par petits morceaux dans une autre marmite, 

 petits piments enragees, macis de muscade, consomme, vin de 

 Madere, champignons, ris de veau en tres petits morceaux, cretes 

 de coqs, rognons, quenelles de volailles ; dans la soupiere, oeufs 

 pochcs et le potage dessus ; si le potage u'est pas assez corse ou 

 assez fort en piment, glace de vohiille, beurre de pimeut. 



Fire burn and caldron bubble ! 



Very good potage, no doubt — but no more like tortue 

 than I to Hercules; and, even for the mock-turtle here 

 presented, any one may safely back Birch of Cornhill 

 asfainst the French artist. When Cuvier last visited this 

 country, and was feasted by some of our philosophers at 

 the Albion, nothing struck him so much as the tortue, 

 upon which his memory long dwelt ; and yet he had had 

 the opportunity of testing the abilities of the first cooks 

 of his own country. Soyer and other compatriots of his 

 may have shone since that time ; but formerly turtle 

 was eminently English. Nor is it of remote antiquity as 

 an English dish. Not much more than a hundred years 

 have passed since its general introduction, and for a long 

 time it was comparatively rare. But steam, which anni- 

 hilates both space and time to make epicures as well as 

 lovers happy, now brings a regular and rapid supply of 

 really ' fine lively turtle,' very different from the wasted 

 invalids Avhich our West Indiamen of the olden time 

 landed after their lagging voyage. Bristol was famous 

 for it ; and some years ago the Montague Tavern bore 



