56 



Dicky {a"tige). 



In making the Labrador hooded frock, commonly called 

 the dicky, different materials — deerskin, sealskin, or dufifle — are 

 used. The pattern illustrated in Figure 10 is for the men's 

 dicky, which is cut off square around the bottom, and does 

 not present the swallow-tailed appearance of the women's 

 garment. Women are also found wearing a square-cut 

 dicky, both in Labrador and Baffin island. I was told by an 

 Eskimo woman that the square dickys were worn by the un- 

 married women, and the long-tails by the married women. 

 Still we find young girls wearing the same long-tailed dickys 

 as their mothers. This reference may be to adults. 



In cutting the material for the dicky, it is folded once, 

 and the pattern is laid on the material with the middle length- 

 ways. This enables the front portion of the dicky to be cut. 

 Then the material is folded again and the back portion and hood 

 cut in one piece. Then the two sleeves are cut out. This 

 completes the cutting. 



In sewing, the side seams are formed by placing the back 

 and front portions together (Figure 10 a) and the seam is sewn 

 as far as the arm-pit, then double seamed (Figure 10 b); the 

 shoulder seam is then sewn (Figure 10 c) and double-seamed 

 (Figure 10 d). The top seam to the other half (Figure 10 e) 

 completes the body portion. The sleeve-seam is next sewn 

 and double-seamed (Figure 10 f and g), then the sleeve is turned 

 and sewn in the sleeve hole in the body of the garment (Figure 

 10 h), and also double-seamed (Figure 10 i). 



Some dickys have a pocket sewn on the side (Figure 10 j). 

 The sewing of the flap of the pocket from the back (Figure 10 k) 

 and the hemming of the bottom of the dicky (Figure 101) com- 

 plete the operation. 



The dicky is sewn from the inside and then turned; this 

 avoids the seams showing. The Labrador and Ungava dufifle 

 dicky is trimmed on the bottom with two parallel lines of red 

 or blue binding, which perhaps represent the fur lines of trim- 

 ming in the original skin garment. The face of the hood is trim- 

 med with fur. There is no such extensive application of a fur 



