RESISTANT VINEYARDS GRAFTING, PLANTING, CULTIVATION. 113 



should not be grafted on to the growth of the previous season, even 

 when it is large enough, as the numerous suckers which would be pro- 

 duced would be very troublesome to remove and would interfere with 

 the uniting. 



The roots of the stock should be cut back to stubs not more than 

 one inch in length. If left longer they make the handling of the 

 grafts very troublesome and are of little, if any, use. 



Callusing. When the grafts are made, the cuttings are completely 

 dormant, but as soon as they are placed in the proper favorable con- 

 ditions certain of their tissues become active and the changes and vital 

 processes commence which bring about the rooting of the stock, the 

 sprouting of the scion, and the uniting of one to the other. 



FIG. 11. Callusing bed. 



These favorable conditions do not usually exist in the nursery at 

 the time of grafting, so that if the grafts are planted out directly 

 many of them will dry out or be injured by cold and moisture before 

 they can commence active growth. For this reason it is always best, 

 except at the extreme end of the grafting season, to "stratify" the 

 grafts in a " Callusing" bed, where the conditions of moisture, tem- 

 perature, and aeration can be controlled. 



This callusing bed is usually a pile of clean sand placed on the south 

 side of a wall or building and surrounded by a board partition where 

 there is no possibility of its becoming too wet by the flow of water 

 from a higher level or from an overhanging roof. It should be pro- 

 tected, if necessary, by a surrounding ditch. It should be furnished 

 with a removable cover of canvas or boards to protect it from rain and 

 to enable the temperature to be controlled by the admission or exclusion 

 of the sun's rays. A water-proof wagon-cover, black on one side and 

 white on the other, is excellent for this purpose. 



