RESISTANT VINEYARDS GRAFTING, PLANTING, CULTIVATION. 131 



shaped piece of iron about 15 inches long, a handle furnished with a 

 cross-piece, and a foot-rest. In use, it is pressed into the ground by 

 placing the foot on the foot-rest and then by a backward and forward 

 movement of the handle the hole is opened in the soil and the dibble 

 removed. This hole is made from 8 to 10 inches deep, according to 

 the length of the graft. The graft is then inserted to the right depth 

 and the dibble pressed into the ground again about 3 or 4 inches from 

 the graft and a few inches deeper than the first time. Then by a 

 vigorous thrust of the handle the blade of the dibble is caused to 

 press the soil tightly around the graft. An ordinary garden spade 



FIG. 25. Illustrating method of planting grafts. (Redrawn after Hit-liter.) 



may be used for the same purpose. It is particularly necessary that 

 the soil should be in intimate contact with the bottom of the graft. 



Whatever the length of the graft, the union should be 1 or 2 inches 

 above the general level of the ground. On steep hillsides the union 

 should be placed higher 4 inches or more above the surface. Unless 

 this is done the union will soon be covered by the soil thrown down 

 by the sidehill plows, and it will be difficult or impossible to prevent 

 the growth of scion roots. Grafted vines for use on hillsides should 

 be from 2 to 4 inches longer than for level soils. The stocks should 

 not be less than 12 inches long. A 14- or 15-inch stock and a one-bud 

 scion is the best for this purpose. As soon as possible after planting, 

 not later than the next day, the soil should be hoed up around the 

 graft, leaving a broad hill reaching at least 2 or 3 inches above the 

 union. 



