ON THE ART OF MAKING WINE. 63 



(?n uncorking, which produces briskness or spark- 

 ling. The causes of this phenomenon, and the 

 mode of ensuring, preserving and regulating it, 

 have been also fully detailed ; and it has been seen 

 how it is compatible, either with a very consider- 

 able sweetness, or with a limited degree of the 

 same property. As this modification is also esteem- 

 ed among the made wines, it is desirable that an 

 accurate knowledge of the method of producing it 

 should be attained, since it is frequently missed, in 

 consequence of negligence or ignorance in the con- 

 duct of the process. It is from gooseberries al- 

 most solely, that this variety has in this- country 

 been made ; but it is by no means limited to that 

 fruit, since, with due attention to the period of 

 maturity, and with careful management, it may 

 be equally well made from any other fruit. I 

 must not, however, quit this subject, without cau- 

 tioning the operator, against a bad expedient, to 

 which recourse has been had for producing the 

 effect of sparkling. It is the introduction of a 

 small portion of carbonate of potash or soda, into 

 the bottle immediately before corking it. The 

 consequence of this, is doubtless, a disengagement 

 of gas at the moment of pouring out. But the gas 

 speedily flies off, almost before the wine can be 

 drunk, since it exists but in a loose state of coin-' 

 bination, and in but small quantity. Nor does it 

 communicate to the palate, that agreeable and live-* 

 ly sensation, which follows from the disengage*- 



