LAKE TITICACA 145 



to stop her on her journey whenever I wish to sound 

 and make deep water observations. I shall devote my- 

 self specially to this, and hope with what Garman has 

 done to have a good idea of the physical geography of 

 the Lake. 



The Captain could not be more devoted ; he was edu- 

 cated in England, speaks English well, and is a striking 

 contrast to Peruvians, active, prompt, intelligent, and 

 devoted to his business. He also gave up to me his 

 cabin and turned out the purser; otherwise I should 

 have had a pretty uncomfortable time, but as it is I am 

 very well off. The food is pretty bad, but I manage 

 when coming in very hungry to make an excellent meal. 

 I hope to be able, if the weather allows me, to go to 

 Tiaguanaco, where there are some magnificent ruins, 

 for what I have seen at Titicaca does not impress me 

 greatly thus far in favor of Inca architecture. I fear 

 Squier and others have drawn a very long bow, or had 

 taken a little too much of the native "Italia." 



A part of my present trip goes over the same ground 

 as the last one I made, but it could not be helped, and 

 as I have now from Garman all the sounding apparatus, 

 I shall not be sorry to go over the whole ground again. 

 Juli, where I met Garman, is a very prettily situated 

 place, in fact all the little towns on the Lake Shore 

 could not be in more advantageous positions, a little 

 ways above the Lake with a sloping green to the shore, 

 and generally on each side quite high hills flanking a 

 lower hill in the rear. 



Near the southern end of the lake is the Cathedral 

 of Copacabana, with its famous image of the Virgin. 

 This shrine is the resort of pilgrims from almost every 



