soil. I- OR PLANTS IX POTS 3 



instead of the turf scrapings. We hear a g^reat deal 

 said alxjut its superiority over other HL^ht and spongy 

 soils, but there is really but very little difTerence 

 between it and turfy soil, since both are composed 

 largely of vegetable matter. In one case, leaves, decay, 

 and furnish food for plant growth, and in the other 

 the grass roots rot and supply nutriment. Leaf mold 

 gives more immediate effects, because it is already 

 decayed, while turf soil must have time in which to 

 decay before it is fully available. 



I have spoken of well-rotted manure. That from 

 the cow yard is best, and it should be so old as to 

 be black and friable. On no account should fresh 

 manure be used. It will always injure a plant. Hen 

 manure is too strong, unless used in small quantities. 

 If used at all, it should be experimented with carefully. 

 Morse manure is too heating. Guano is better, but 

 care must be exercised in the use of it, as its strength 

 is not always alike, therefore no hard-and-fast rule 

 as to the quantity to be mi.xed with the soil can be 

 given. Finely-ground bone meal I have found to be 

 the best substitute, all things considered, for old cow 

 manure. It is rich in the elements of plant growth, 

 is easily obtainable by those who would find it difficult 

 to procure barnyard manure, is pleasant to handle, and 

 perfectly safe, provided it is not used in excessive 

 quantities. .\ pound of it to the amount of soil that 

 would fill a bushel basket would make the compost 

 very rich, and I would advise using a smaller quan- 

 tity to begin with. Watch the effect on the plants 

 grown in the soil containing it. If they do not take on 

 the luxuriant growth you would like to have them, 

 small quantities of the bone meal can be added to the 

 soil in the pots by digging it in about their roots. 

 Personally, I prefer it to cow manure, for the reason 

 that worms are never bred in the soil from it, while 



