see DR. CHASE'S RECIPE8. 



to London purple in fighting the currant worms, as it is just as effectual and 

 not so poisonous. If it is thought best to use London purple, and it is safe 

 with the requisite precautions, use 1 oz. of the purple to 5 or 6 gals, of water." 

 Knowing the ability of this gentleman to answer all such questions correctly, 

 I have given them most cheerfully. (For the strength of the hellebore water 

 for this purpose, see how to use it, below.) 



2. Currant Worms, to Avoid.— A writer of experience in the Fruit 

 Recorder says: "There is no necessity of breeding currant worms; which is 

 done by leaving bushes untrimmed, the worms always attacking the new growth 

 first." He continues: "My plan is this: In starting a currant patch I confine 

 the bush not to exceed from 1 to 3 main stems, and give all the strength of 

 the root to their support. As hinted above, sprouts will start from the roots 

 each spring, but they must be rubbed off when small. All currant-growers are 

 aware that worms first make their appearance on a new growth and then spread 

 over the bush. Consequently, no sprouts, no worms. This is just as plain as 

 that 2 and 2 make 4. I have followed this plan for the past 2 years to my sat- 

 isfaction, and have barely seen the effects of worms on 1 or 2 bushes where 

 my plan was not fully carried out. But such currants I never saw grow, the 

 common red Dutch being nearly twice as large as the cherry currant and a bet- 

 ter bearer, I had a few bushes that actually broke down from their load of 

 fruit." 



Remarks. — The plan of making a kind of tree of the currant gives so much 

 better chance of cultivating around them, I have often wondered it was not 

 adopted generally; and if any one will adopt this plan, he will see how much 

 easier it will be to adopt the use of soot, as the Scotch do, to eradicate the 

 worm, and at the same time to fertilize; as given in the next item. 



3. Currant Worms to Destroy, and to Fertilize the Ground. 

 — Instead of the powdered hellebore, as heretofore used, copperas water, at the 

 rate of 1 lb. to water, 6 gals., not only destroys the worm, by pulling over the 

 top of the bush to sprinkle it upon the under side of the leaves, but also fer- 

 tilizes the soil. But possibly the Scotch method of dusting fine soot upon them 

 after a shower, or when the dew is on, and also working small quantities of it 

 into the soil around the bushes, is the best way after all, as it is claimed this 

 latter plan in a year or two will eradicate them from the garden altogether. 



4. Lime, Another Certain Bemedy. — A horticulturist near this 

 city, Toledo, O., says in the Post recently: "The only remedy for the currant 

 worm known to us, is to begin early in the season to scatter air-slacked lime on 

 the leaves. This work must be frequently and thoroughly done, always after 

 sun-down. Throw the lime from below upwards, or pull the bushes over, in 

 order to let it catch on the under side of the leaves, and also from above. This 

 will save the currants if done thoroughly and often." 



Remarks. — I know the lime will prevent the conoirachelus nenupTiar (a big 

 name for the p lum weevil), or curculio, from stinging, and thus destroying 

 plums, if thrown on freely, while in blossom, and for a few days thereafter; 

 then why may it not also destroy or prevent the currant worm from putting la 



