MISCELLANEOUS. BfiS 



10. Grafting Currants— To Avoid the Borer and Mildew. The 



Rural New Yorker says: "Lovers of the currant and gooseberry have reason 

 to feel jolly over the success which seems to attend grafting them upon the 

 Missouri currant {Bibes aureum), vphich is not liable to the attacks of the borer. 

 Besides they are exempt from mildew. And thus by u single, happy hit the 

 two great drawbacks to currant and gooseberry cultivation have been overcome. 

 The beauty of these little trees when loaded with their pretty berries, as dis- 

 played at the Centennial, is of itself enough to insure their general cultivation. 

 It would be well for those who intend experimenting with grafting currants 

 to bear in mind that there is a great differcmce in the variety of the 3Iissouri 

 currant, some making better stocks than others." 



Remarks. — I will add, here, that tliere is no fruit that will show more 

 speedily than the currant the effects of high manuring. If large and luscious 

 berries are expected, thin out the bushes, and cover the surface with good rich 

 manure, after having poked some into the ground around them as far out as 

 the roots extend. 



Gooseberries, to prevent Mildew.— ^Edward Martin, of Freehold, 

 N. J., says he prevents mildew on his gooseberries by raising the English vari- 

 ety, and applying soapsuds with a garden syringe, costing only $1.50, begin- 

 ning its application as soon as the fruit begins to form, twice a week for 3 or 

 4 weeks, has never failed him, saving the suds on wash-days, for this purpose. 



1. CABBAGE WORM— Successful Remedy.— A correspondent 

 of the New York Triburie makes the following statement as to the destruction 

 of this late pest of the garden, not in the least injuring the cabbage, as anyone 

 can judge. He says: " I have used salt for the cabbage worm — at the rate of 

 a large tea-cupful to a pail of water — for the last two years with perfect suc- 

 cess. Two applications have been all that were needed. It killed the worms 

 (or at least they died) without hurting the cabbage at all." 



Remarks. — The cabbage worm being a soft-skinned thing, I think the salt 

 will destroy them; if it does not in any case, try the copperas water, as given for 

 destroying the currant worm above. The copperas will not injure th( cabbage, 

 and, I think, either might be used double the strength given, if needed. 



2. Cabbage Worm, the Best Remedy, as Shewn by the New 

 York Experiment Station. — Common yellow hard soap, 1 oz. ; kerosene, 

 1 pt. ; water, 1% gals. ; well mixed and stirred and applied by means of a water- 

 ing-pot, proved the best of anything tried at the above station in 1883. They 

 state that " it kills all the worms it thoroughly wets, and does not injure the 

 plant." They say "it must be kept thoroughly stirred while applying. Sev- 

 eral applications may be needed." 



Remarks. — But if they will bring the soap and water to the boiling point, 

 then stir in the kerosene, it will make a permanent mixture, like Prof. Cook'b 

 In reference to nearly the same for lice or scale bugs on trees. 



3. Cabbage Plants, Best Manner of Setting Out.— In setting out 

 cabbage plants it has been found best to pull off the largest leaves, leaving only 

 the center, as they are then more certain to live and to do better, from the fact 



