780 Lll CEASE'S RECIPES. 



2. Fruit Trees.— Trimming, Best Time, etc.— The best time to 

 trim any fruit, or other trees, or vines, is to pinch off the buds or sprouts when 

 you see one is growing where you don't want it ; if too large to rub or pinch 

 off, use the pocket knife; and although in July or August is considered the 

 best time for trimming, yet branches not exceeding half an inch in diameter 

 may be trimmed off at any time when the sap is not frozen. Still R. N. 

 Handy, in Green's Fruit- Oroicer, says: 



"That the best time to trim apple trees is from June to August, as the 

 wounds then heal over much quicker and better than in the winter months." 

 Good authority or corroboration. And the time to trim apple trees, is the 

 time for all fruit trees. 



But Large Branches, if they ever have to be removed, but will not 

 nave to be if properly trimmed from the beginning, should be trimmed off in 

 f "ebruary or March, so the wound will become dry before spring growth com- 

 mences; and I would always cover a large wound with tallow, well rubbed in, 

 or a coat of graftmg-wax, no matter what time of year the trimming was 

 done. 



T. T. Lyon, of Coldwater, in the MicMgan Farmer, tells his brother 

 rarmers that "in case of very thrifty, non-bearing trees," a thorough trimming 

 in July or August will check wood-growth and encourage fruiting the next 

 season. 



lo Manuring and Care of Orchards.— If the soil was, or Las been 

 made rich before putting out an orchard, and mulching was done properly 

 after setting out, whether it was fall or spring planting, and the mulch, coarse 

 manure or litter was put on to extend beyond the extremities of the roots, as it 

 always should, no further manuring will be needed for two or three years only 

 as may be needed for sur-h crops as are raised upon the ground ; after that a 

 good, thorough manuring again over the whole surface. It is deemed of more 

 importance to mulch well soon after spring planting than fall, to prevent dry- 

 lag out the moisture from the loose dirt by the heat of summer, while in the 

 north, snow generally protects over winter; but 'tis best to do it within two or 

 ^hree weeks after planting, if no mice are in the field, and if mice, the snow must 

 fce kept well tramped down around the trees, and if the tramping extends out 

 over the mulching, 'tis likely to kill any mice nesting therein. See next receipt 

 aiso against mice, rabbits, etc. 



I. Fruit Trees— To Protect From Mice and Borers.— "M," a 

 correspondent cf the Maine Farmer, in answer to an inquiry of one signmg 

 himself •' Novice," ( one new in any business) says he has for ten years pro- 

 tected his trees from mice by binding a piece of birch bark around the base of 

 the tree with twine, which lasts two or three years^ or until the growth bursta 

 ihe twine, then a new siring is to be tied on again. 



II. Bores— To Protect Against Borers.- Cover the lower end Jt 

 &e bai'k an inch or more with dirt. Where birch bark is not plenty, other 

 iiaiiEB, or why noc caiTed building-paper, as neither mice nor rabbits like the tar. 



