EEMINISCENCES OF THE LEWS. 11 



balmy odours proceeding from tlie curing-houses 

 and their accumulations. If you wish to sojourn 

 in the town of Stornoway, do not choose this 

 particular season of the year for doing so. 



Monday morning came, and with it the 

 factor — or rather, as he is grandiloquently 

 called, the Chamberlain of the Lews, — arrived, 

 John Munro M'Kenzie, the model of his class, 

 a straightforward gentleman, as sharp as a 

 needle ; not to be outwitted, and no outwitter. 

 His name will long be remembered in those 

 parts. He has long been removed to another 

 sphere of business, where, I am happy to hear, 

 he is doing well for himself and his family. 

 With him we started to prospect the shootings. 

 Eirst we tried the northern, or Gross quarters, 

 as they are called. I cannot say much for the 

 drive to Gross, or for the romance of the 

 scenery. Whenever you come across the 

 Minch, that and the mainland hills beyond it 

 form a beauty of their own ; but the island 

 here of itself is not beautiful. Gross House 

 stands well over the sea bay, but it was then 

 a dirty hole ; though I believe now it is much 

 improved. I remember well a discussion about 

 the rent of the house — £50 per annum — 

 between M'Kenzie and the then proprietor, 

 being cut short by F. M. saying, "I 



