316 CROP GROWING AND CROP FEEDING 



said they had had no manure, but they have been twice limed, and this has, 

 of course, helped in the nitrification of the organic matter, and in the release 

 of potash from the clay soil in which they stand. 



Still, while it is evident that apple trees can be planted in sod and do 

 well, we do not think that this one instance warrants us in recommending the 

 general planting of apple trees in sod. What we want in the young tree for 

 the first years of its life is vigorous growth, and as a rule this is promoted 

 by good cultivation and manuring. But we do object to the advice given by 

 a prominent writer on orcharding, to plow and cultivate the orchard deeply 

 so as to force the roots down in the soil. We prefer to work all plants shal- 

 lowly, so as to keep the roots in the best soil and in reach of the influences of 

 the air and fertilizers, and not to force the roots of trees down into the unim- 

 proved and unaerated subsoil. If the roots are forced down by deep cultiva- 

 tion there must inevitably be a great loss of the fertilizing matters applied 

 before the deep set roots can get the benefit of them. Prepare the soil deeply 

 and well before planting and then cultivate shallowly, every summer till 

 July, until the trees get into a bearing state, and then put the orchard in 

 grass and treat it as you would a lawn, by frequent mowing and letting the 

 cut grass lie to help the trees. In short, plant and grow an apple orchard 

 for apples alone, and you will get them. 



STARTING THE TREES. 



Having selected one-year-old trees with a single stem, we prune all the 

 roots that have become in any way bruised or broken in digging, and cut 

 off all the fibrous roots, as they are commonly dried up. Make the holes 

 no deeper than the plowing was done, for a deep hole in the hard subsoil will 

 simply be a reservoir for the water to settle in and damage the roots. Put 

 no manure of any kind around the roots of a young tree, but simply put the 

 surface soil in the bottom and work it in among the roots, and then ram the 

 earth as though you were setting a post. Never pour water in the holes to 

 settle the earth, for the wet earth will crack and admit air in drying. A good 

 ramming of moderately dry soil is all that is needed. In the North it is 

 probable that spring planting will be best, but anywhere south of Pennsyl- 

 vania we would, as a rule, set trees in the fall. Nurserymen advise planters 

 to get the trees in the fall, even if they set them in the spring, and heel them 

 in ready for planting; the recommendation is mainly for the convenience 

 of the nurserymen, for we had rather plant than heel in. 



Having "set the trees, the next thing is to head them back to the point 

 where you wish the head to start. Low headed orchard trees are best in any 

 locality, and south of the Potomac no orchard tree should have a stem of over 



