I 



MEHEMET ALI'S COUET 229 



ments, sofa'd all round the walls, and covered with rich 

 Turkey carpets, to the private audience-chamber. This 

 was splendid, surrounded by looking-glasses ; the walls 

 above pale satin, with worked crimson and gold flowers, 

 the windows some 15 feet high, with transparent blinds, 

 worked also with most superb groups of flowers, exquisitely 

 imitated. All round were sofas and cushions of satin, 

 worked with carnations, fuchsias, and roses. Mehemet, an 

 old cunning-looking man, in a plain, olive-green braided 

 coat, sat in the right hand corner near the window, and 

 received us standing. He conversed with Lord D. by means 

 of a Dragoman interpreter, we all being ranged round and 

 forming a gorgeous cortege. Behind were several other 

 gentlemen, who came, but took no part, including his son 

 and son-in-law, and many plainly attired domestics. In a 

 few minutes each. Lady Dalhousie included, was furnished 

 with a pipe 6 feet long, having amber mouthpieces full of 

 brilliants, the mouthpieces as thick as my arm almost, and 

 8 inches long. The bowl was placed in a silver dish on the 

 ground ; and we all whiffed away. The servants then 

 brought coffee in little egg cups, set in gold filagree holders, 

 blazing with diamonds. . . . The same attendants removed 

 pipes and coffee cups ; and we all retired much pleased with 

 all we saw. 



The troubles of the old Overland route, even under 

 the gilding of the Viceregal aegis, merit description. The 

 journey to Suez took nineteen hours. Hooker himself barely 

 escaped the hideous discomfort of doing this on a dromedary's 

 back. By some mistake, the disembarkation of the ordinary 

 Indian passengers at Alexandria had not been telegraphed 

 through by signal till after he had set off to visit the Pyramids. 

 It would have been highly inconvenient for both parties to 

 travel together across the desert ; accordingly the Governor- 

 General prepared for early departure, and when Hooker re- 

 turned he found all the luggage had gone on ; and he was in 

 consternation, having only two hours to pack, get his fossils 

 sent home, and go to the Consul's, whence they were to start. 

 * We were prohibited taking anything but a tiny carpet bag ; 

 so I hired a fleet Dromedary for my baggage (my very heavy 



