292 THE SECOND HIMALAYAN JOUENEY 



But official obstruction began with the first functionary 

 encountered, to be answered, as always, with patience and 

 firmness, seasoned with good-humoured contempt. The fellow 

 declared he had no orders ; the party must wait two days 

 until word could be received from the Eajah. Confronted 

 with the necessary permit, he apologised, but must mend 

 the roads, and that would take two days. 



So [exclaims Hooker] these trumpery functionaries lie, 

 cheat, and obstruct, and nothing but patience and cool 

 contempt put them down. The moment I gather the con- 

 tents of their long speeches from the preface, I cut them 

 short with an answer which does not suit Bhotean idioms 

 and fashions. 



The personal difficulties on the journey may be measured 

 by the fact that whereas to the snows was reckoned a matter 

 of twenty-five, or for a heavily laden party, thirty marches, 

 in the event it took eighty-three days, from May 3 to July 24, 

 to reach the Kongra Lama pass. On May 5, the next hint of 

 obstruction on the part of a friend of the hostile Lassoo Kajee 

 melted away after the arrival of the Tchebu Lama on his way 

 Jbo Darjiling, though the latter, who was to prove himself a 

 faithful friend, was formally commissioned to say that the 

 Eajah had wished the expedition to be postponed on account 

 of his son's death. 



Now [comments Hooker] as the Eajah had not spoken 

 to his son for sixteen years, I doubt his sorrow. The period 

 of mourning is over, anyhow, and, as I told the Lama, it 

 was all one to me, if Eajah, son, and family were to die 

 together — that was no reason why I should not travel 

 through his country. He promptly apologised for his 

 Master, and wrote an order (of what use it is the sequel 

 will show) that I was to pass on unmolested, till I met a 

 guide from the Eajah. 



Five days later obstruction was renewed, but the tables 

 were neatly turned on the obstructor. The Lama of Gorh, 

 another underhng of the Dewan's, having obstructed the roads 

 and bridges overnight, officiously came forward as a guide, 



