82 General Notices. 



dry white sand. I cover the pots with bell glasses, and place them on a 

 shelf, in a shady part of an early vinery, keeping- the surface constantly 

 moist, by pouring water on the outside of the glasses. As soon as the 

 plants have come up, air is admitted, and increased as they advance in 

 growth. When sufficiently strong, they are picked out into small pots, 

 having the same drainage, moss, and mixture, as the seed pots, and are 

 again shaded with hand or bell glasses, until the plants become established. 

 In three weeks or a month, they require to be potted off singly into small 

 pots; and I encourage their growth as much as possible, by placing them 

 in a shady part of either a vinery or a melon pit, whichever is kept at the 

 highest temperature, with a humid atmosphere. As soon as they begin to 

 fill their pots with roots, I give them once a week a little clarified manure 

 water. I repot into winter pots, about the middle of August, using pots 

 to suit the size of the plants, and replacing them in the same growing tem- 

 perature as before, till their pots are filled with roots. After this, I begin 

 to prepare them for winter, by giving them less moisture, more air, and a 

 cooler temperature ; and finally they are placed on a shelf near the glass 

 in the coolest part of the stove, and wintered rather dry. Early in February, 

 I begin to increase the heat and moisture ; and as soon as they begin to 

 grow freely, I repot them, which is generally about the second week in 

 March. They receive another shift in April, and those that are intended 

 for large specimens a third in May (using 18 or 20 inch pots,) and a mix- 

 ture consisting of equal quantities, of good strong maiden loam, peat or bog 

 mould, burnt clay, leaf mould, and cow manure, with a little white sand. 

 These materials are well mixed together, and, if dry, are moistened, to pre- 

 vent their running too close in the pots. In potting, I use a large quantity 

 of drainage, and plenty of rubble stones, small potsherds, and coarse river 

 sand amongst the mixture. I make the mixture just firm, but am very care- 

 ful to leave it quite porous. I give very little water till the roots reach the 

 sides of the pots: it is increased as the plants and the season advance, giv- 

 ing heat and moisture in proportion. Too much stress cannot be put upon 

 making a proper mechanical arrangement of rich, porous, and well drained 

 soils, which are essential for the healthy development of plants, of the nature 

 of Lisianthus. When the young shoots are sufficiently advanced,! stop them 

 immediately above the second joint ; each shoot will then produce four ; 

 they require stopping about three times. The last stopping for plants re- 

 quired to bloom early, should take place in the first week in June, and for 

 plants required to bloom later, in the first week in July. As they advance 

 in growth, the branches will require to be tied out with sticks, to make 

 round and well-formed plants. When the plants are growing freely, they 

 are sometimes attacked with a disease at the base, which is produced by 

 the moist and confined atmosphere, that is required for their fine growth. 

 To prevent this, I allow the surface to become quite dry once a week, dur- 

 ing which, the plants are supplied with moisture from feeders or pans, in 

 which the pots are placed for a few hours, being careful not to allow any 

 stagnant water to remain about them. As soon as the blooms begin to ex- 

 pand, I keep a drier atmosphere, and expose them to more air and light, 



