180 General Notices. 



the stem above ground ; 8 inches, I mean, exclusive of the part which is 

 to form the head of the tree, which must consist of three or four buds, so 

 arranged round the axis, that the future branches shall be at equal distances 

 from each other, so as to secure a cup-like form, when the head advances. 

 Having determined on the buds to be preserved, carefully exterminate all 

 the rest, especially those on the part to be inserted for the roots. If this 

 is not done, you will be troubled with suckers every year, a pest you will 

 be free from, to a great extent, if this rule is attended to. I was about to 

 make a more positive statement, but I remember finding suckers proceeding 

 from the larger roots, and even from parts of the stem, where there was 

 previously no bud. Do all you can to prevent the evil, and its existence 

 must then be provided against, in the best manner afterwards, should it oc- 

 cur. 



In two or three years, the cuttings will have good heads, and they may 

 then be placed in the situations they are finally to occupy. At that time, 

 it will be proper to determine whether you will grow them as standards, or 

 espaliers, the latter mode being adopted with success, especially in the 

 case of those gooseberries, of a trailing habit of growth, peculiar to some of 

 the best varieties, which makes it very difficult to form a good head. This 

 determination refers more to the position in which the trees are to be plant- 

 ed, as it is manifest that the training of the bush must be regulated from the 

 first, so as to make it an espalier or standard. In both cases, avoid close 

 planting, by which nothing can be gained, but most probably much will be 

 lost. Keep the soil around them free from weeds, and dig in every year a 

 little well-rotted dung. To prevent the ravages of the caterpillar, it has 

 been recommended to remove the surface soil every autumn, and replace it 

 with fresh, brought from a little distance. It is said that the eggs are de- 

 posited near the trees, and are thus removed. A little quicklime, sprinkled 

 over, might be equally effectual. I must confess, I feel a little ashamed of 

 being obliged to speak doubtfully on this important subject, but I am not 

 acquainted sufficiently with the habits of this insect, to speak positively, 

 yet few persons have suffered more severely from its ravages, than I have. 



We now return to the point whence we set out, the annual pruning of the 

 trees. First cut away as much of the bush, as will leave it accessible to 

 sun and air, and preserve a compact and open arrangement of the branches. 

 If the tree is old, remove as much as you can of the older wood, and intro- 

 duce young shoots in its place. Gooseberries and currants bear on last 

 vear's wood, not exclusively, but principally, and yet a very different mode 

 is adopted for each. The former are trained so that last year's growth 

 shall remain as long as possible, one or two buds only at the extremities 

 being cut off. Currants, on the contrary, are spurred, each new shoot being 

 cut down to within two buds, a few leaders excepted, for the future en- 

 largement of the tree The same plan may be adopted with the gooseberry, 

 but it will have this disadvantage ; the fruit will be too crowded to allow of 

 proper expansion, whereas, the pendent form of a bunch of currants allows of 

 closer quarters. Summer pruning should not be neglected, as there can be 

 no doubt that the removal of the profuse growth of that season, judiciously. 



