226 General Notices. 



I must mention that Mr. Paul recommends the former compost for light 

 soils in preference to the latter. The holes being ready, dig up the rose- 

 trees, taking care not to break the roots, which is very likely to happen if 

 they are not well loosened with the fork. Prune the head close in, and cut 

 away all dead parts about the juncture of the stock and the bud. Then 

 prune the roots, leaving as much as possible of the young fibres; cut away 

 all useless and decayed portions, and see that no rough wounds remain. 

 As each tree is finished, let it be put in its new situation, allowing the roots 

 to be exposed to the air as little as possible. Arrange the fibres nicely on 

 the surface of fine soil, and cover with the same ; tread the whole firmly in, 

 and give a good watering. This must be repeated occasionally in dry 

 ■weather the first season, and, with this care, the trees will not suffer by 

 removal. The pruning of the roots, and the new soil, will excite to the 

 production of fresh fibres, and the results of your operations will appear in 

 finer flowers and a more vigorous growth. 



Although budded roses suffer most by continuing too long in one locality, 

 all kinds will be improved by occasional removal. Let a few be done every 

 year, and the whole collection will be kept in high condition. The flower- 

 ing will be retarded by the process, but this will be an advantage, by pro- 

 longing the blooming season. It should have been mentioned that, when 

 examining the roots of the briars, all those parts of the buried stem which 

 have thrown up suckers should be cut away, to prevent that nuisance in 

 future. If you intend to bud roses yourself, choose proper stocks, avoid- 

 ing all those club-footed things which are so plentifully found in hedges. 

 —(Gard. Chron., 1819, p. 181.) 



Weigelia rosea. — Although this is perfectly hardy, it deserves notice as 

 a pot plant for window or balcony gardening, and it also answers admira- 

 bly for forcing. For the latter purpose, any time during February, March, 

 or April, select strong plants in 3-inch pots, and shift them into G or 8-inch 

 pots, using turfy loam, a little leaf-mould, and some sand. Let them be 

 plunged in an open situation fully exposed to the sun. They will require 

 some little summer-pruning, or rather pinching, in order to make them 

 bushy. By autumn, they will be nice dwarf plants, and may be removed 

 to the forcing pit, cool part of the stove, or warm greenhouse, taking care 

 not to prune them. Few plants present a more graceful appearance, and 

 require less care. — {Gard. Chron., 1849, p. 181.) 



Hint respecting the Culture of Araucaria imbricata. — There was planted 

 in a park in the south of England, in the autumn of 1845, a number of good 

 sized plants of Araucaria imbricata, in various soils and situations, all con- 

 sidered more or less good, with one exception. This latter plant was placed 

 in what might be considered a disadvantageous site in all respects ; when 

 planted, it was looked upon as certain not to do well, being in a low valley 

 where fogs appear earliest and leave latest, and where the most powerful 

 ■winds sweep along more destructively than in the exposed places at the 

 foot of a hill facing the north, and shaded by large trees during the whole 

 winter season, and where, six inches below the turf, there is a hard bed of 

 stones; yet this tree looks most luxuriantly, and has made growth in the 



