186 General Notices. 



cold frame as soon as an inch high ; they wguIcI there harden down in a 

 couple of weeks, and be ready for turning out into the borders. The ten- 

 der annuals, if drawing in the warm frame, might be removed to warm and 

 light shelves, in the greenhouse or other structures. The soil for the hardy 

 kinds should be chiefly plain loam ; this will be found to produce a sturdier 

 plant than rich vegetable matters ; and much blossom, in proportion to the 

 amount of foliage. We would raise all our hardy annuals in pots through 

 the summer, in cool frames, turning them out when slightly pot-bound. 

 How often have we seen annuals, in rich borders, of immense size yet con- 

 tributing little to the decoration of the garden ; and, in a wet and dull sum- 

 mer, actually rotting in the ground." — Gardeners^ Chronicle, 1847. p. 119 

 and 120. 



Pruning the Pear Tree. — A series of short articles has lately appeared in 

 the Gardeners^ Chronicle, upon the pruning of the pear tree, which we may 

 presume are from the pen of Mr. R. Thompson. As they are just nowin good 

 season, we extract the following upon the mode of pruning standards, equal- 

 ly applicable, also, to dwarfs, and, at another opportunity, we shall endeavor 

 to find room for that portion upon espaliers. We commend it to the atten- 

 tion of all cultivators : — 



" We broke off, in our last"number, with the Pear Tree, supposed to be 

 stopped, at the time of winter pruning, to three buds above the desired 

 height of clear stem, which was assumed to be 6 feet. These three buds 

 will in all probability break into shoots. In the course of the summer there 

 is also great probability that the said shoots will grow at unequal angles of 

 elevation ; the shoot from the uppermost bud tending most to a perpendicular 

 direction, and, from this circumstance, it will generally be the strongest. An 

 equality of growth is now, however, desirable. This maybe secured by 

 bending the strong shoot from the upright direction, by means of a strip of 

 matting before midsummer ; and if in July it should still exhibit great 

 superiority in vigor, stop it by cutting or pinching off its point. 



" At the end of the season, the three shoots will be tolerably equal, and 

 may be shortened to about a foot in length. Two shoots should be allowed 

 to grow from each of these three primary ones ; and thus six principal limbs 

 will be originated. These should, of course, be as nearly equi-distant as 

 possible. In order to secure this, care should be taken always to cut 

 above a bud pointing towards the direction which it may appear desirable for 

 the shoot from it to proceed. For example, if two branches are likely to 

 approach, or ultimately to cross each other, the leading shoots of such 

 branches should be cut to buds pointing in opposite directions. If, on the 

 other hand, there is too great a space between two branches, let these be 

 cut to buds situated on the respective sides of the branches or shoots next 

 the opening. If a branch has taken a direction too upright, cut to a bud on 

 its under side ; if too pendulous, shorten more than in the preceding case, 

 and to a bud on the upper side. 



"The formation of shoots to form the principal branches of the top having 

 been effected, it will next be necessary to shorten the leaders of these where 



