194 TRAVELS IN THE EAST INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 



far better than they are in many civilized lands. The 

 teachers are all well paid. Those on this island are 

 all natives. They are remarkably awkward, proba- 

 bly because they feel dressed up ; for, on such an im- 

 portant occasion as the present, eveiy one who holds 

 a government office must appear in a black suit. 

 Again and again I found it required great self-com- 

 mand to keep from smiling when it was expected I 

 should look very grave and dignified ; for here, on the 

 outskirts of civilization, I beheld all the fashions of 

 Europe, apparently for the last two hundred years. 

 All the petty officials wore dress coats, some with tails 

 almost on the ground, and others with sleeves so long 

 that you could scarcely see the ends of the fingers, 

 and still others with the waists so small that they 

 seemed to be in corsets. Some of these coats had 

 narrow collars, and had evidently been worn by the 

 most dainty exquisites, while others had lapels 

 broad enouo;h for the outer coat of a coachman. As 

 soon as the inspection is over these precious articles 

 are carefully rolled up and thoroughly smoked, to 

 prevent theii* being destroyed by the ants. They are 

 then placed away till the next year, when they are 

 again unrolled and at once put on, entirely filled with 

 wrinkles, and giving out the strongest odors. 



On enterins: the school-house the Resident is 

 greeted with a welcome that has been prepared long 

 before by the teacher and committed to memory by 

 a small boy, who now steps forward, and, stretching 

 out both arms at full length, repeats the oration at 

 the top of his voice, occasionally emphasizing certain 

 sentences by making a low bow, but taking care all 



