366 TRAVELS IN THE EAST INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 



way to Kema, having been transferred, at his re- 

 quest, to Sumatra. We should therefore be com- 

 panions on the steamer all the way to Java, which 

 was especially agreeable to me, as he spoke Eng- 

 lish well, and no one not born in Holland can ever 

 learn to pronounce the harsh gutturals of the Dutch 

 language with perfect ease and accuracy. From Lan- 

 gowan we rode four miles in a northerly direction to 

 Kakas, a village at the southern end of the lake of 

 Tondano. The ruma negri here is one of the most 

 pleasantly-situated buildings in the Minahassa. It is 

 large and carefully built, and has broad verandas 

 both toward the lake and the village. It is sur- 

 rounded with plots of green grass, neatly bordered 

 with gravelled walks, and rose-bushes covered vdth 

 large crimson flowers. In the evening, when the moon 

 rose over the sharp peaks a short distance to the 

 east, and spread a broad band of silver light over the 

 lake, the effect was charming ; and now, while we 

 inhale the balmy aii^, and recall to mind the ponds of 

 beautiful lotus we have been passing, we may feel 

 that we are indeed in the enchanted lotus-land that 

 Tennyson thus pictures : 



In the afternoon they came unto a land 



In which it seemed always afternoon ; 



At noon the coast with languid air did swoon, 



Breathing like one that hath a weary dream. 



Full-faced above the valley stood the moon ; 



And like a downward smoke the slender stream 



Along the cliff to fall, and pause, and fall, did seem. 



Janua/ry 1, 1866. — Walked with the controleur 

 and chief through the village, and saw the mode of 



