438 TRAVELS IN THE EAST INDIAN ARCHIPELAGO. 



the largest man in his hampong and armed him with 

 a long, rusty sword. Several others were also ordered 

 to accompany us, though the rajah seemed to rely 

 chiefly on the brave who carried his arms. As for 

 me, the only weapon with which I was provided was 

 a pocket-knife, but I think now that I underrated the 

 danger then, and that if I were going on the same ex- 

 cursion again I should take a revolver at least. From 

 Subuluan our course was along a large stream. Soon 

 we came to a Batta village, where a capala and two 

 men joined us, to act as our guides and also to in- 

 crease my body-guard, which, even then, would have 

 been far from formidable if any real danger had pre- 

 sented itself, and they had had a good opportunity 

 to run away. The rough path that we were follow- 

 ing came to a stream which I was compelled to wade, 

 and found so deep that it rose to my arms. Besides, 

 the current was so strong that I was glad to have the 

 assistance of a native on either side. The sand and 

 sharj) gravel were thus washed into my shoes ; and as 

 I learned we should have to cross that stream some 

 ten times, for such a road do these mid cannibals 

 use, I quickly prepared myself to go barefoot. 



We had now come into a deep gorge ; the sun 

 poured down his most scorching rays ; the rocks and 

 sand were so hot that it seemed they would blister 

 my feet, and even the Malays complained. The next 

 ford was just above a series of rapids. I was clad in 

 a suit of blue flannel, which absorbed so much water 

 that I found I was in great danger of being swept 

 away by the torrent. I concluded that I had better 

 adopt the costumes of the Malays. The rajah wore 



