THE FAKMER'S ORCHARD 



151 



Soil. — A clay loam witli a deep, porous subsoil is considered 

 the best. In preparing the soil it should be Avell incorporated 

 with humus, green manure, such as clover preferred, but stable 

 manure should also be added. If the young trees are to be 

 planted in a clay loam make sure that it is well drained in the 

 fall previous to planting. Cultivate the soil, leaving it in the 



rough over winter. 

 I In the spring disc 



and harrow the 



surface and then 



dig the holes fif- 

 teen feet each way, 



one hundred and 



ninety-three trees 



per acre (dwarf 



trees). Standard 



pears, plant fifteen 



by thirty feet,nine- 



tj^-six trees per 



acre. 

 Planting. — Place 



a little decayed sod 



and fine top soil in 



the bottom of the 



hole before setting 



the trees. Prune 



Fia. 70. — One-year- 

 old pear tree. 

 The line shows 



where to cut off all bruiscd or 



back at time of , , . , 



pruning.— f7. 8. brolvCU rOOtS bc- 

 Depf. of Agri- 

 culture. 



Fig. 71. — Two-year-old pear tree. The 

 lines show where to cut back at 

 time of pruning. — U. 8. Dept. of 

 Agriculture. 



fore planting. Re- 

 move all long whip- 

 like roots to within six inches of 

 the trunk. The tree should be set 

 in the middle of the hole Avith the fine, rich top soil worked 

 in around the roots and tramped down firmly. Set the trees 

 about three inches deeper than they were planted in the nursery. 

 The depth of planting in the nursery is shown by the soil line 

 on the bark. 



It is not advisable to plant more than two rows of any one 

 variety together, because some of the varieties are infertile. 

 Rows have pollenization in the orchard in order to insure fruit- 

 fulness. In general, spring planting is considered the best. 



Cultivation. — A light harroAving of the surface soil is desirable 

 if the orchard is under cultivation. Stop cultivating about July 



