THE DAIRY. 537 



••* and wrings out. This is continued until not a particle of water 

 " is to be seen in the butter as it comes from the roller, to which 

 " it now begins to adhere. If there is any secret in the making 

 *' of Philadelphia butter, this is it ; and it has much to do with its 

 '' uniform waxiness of texture, whether hard or soft. 



" After this, the butter is salted (an ounce of salt to three 

 " pounds of butter) — still, by the aid of the machine, and any 

 " lurking atom of moisture is in this way prevented from becom- 

 " ing a cause of rancidity. 



" When the salt is thoroughly worked through the whole mass, 

 " the butter is removed to a large table, where it is weighed out 

 *' and put up into pound-prints. 



" The working, wiping, and salting of over one hundred pounds 

 *' of butter occupied about an hour, and before lo a. m. the entire 

 " churning, beautifully printed, as fragrant as the newest hay, and 

 " as yellow as pure gold, such butter as only Jersey cream will 

 " make, was deposited in large tin trays and set in the water to 

 " harden. The next morning it was wrapped in damp cloths, each 

 " pound by itself, put in a tin case, each layer having its own 

 " wooden shelf, with two compartments of pounded ice to keep 

 " it cool, and, surrounded by a well-coopered and securely-locked 

 *' cedar tub, was sent to the Continental Hotel, where we found 

 " it, on our return, as delicious as when it left the farm. 



" It is very difficult to describe any process in which so much 

 " depends on the judgment of the operator, and the writer hardly 

 *' hopes for more than that this will stimulate others who are inter- 

 "ested in the subject, to examine for themselves the dairy opera- 

 " tions of this interesting and beautiful region. 



" One of the strongest impressions that we had thus far received 

 " was, that much of the excellence of the butter was due to the 

 " use of the spring-house, but our next visit (on the recommenda- 

 *■*■ tion of a friend who gave us the names of the most noted of the 

 " fancy-price dairies) was to a farm where the milk is kept in a 

 " deep vault, arranged very much like a spring-house, but without 

 *' water. The proprietor of this farm, a man of long experience 

 " and of excellent reputation as a butter-maker, has satisfied him- 



