XIV 



SCIENCE AND POLITICS 



139 



starting I cut my knee, which I was afraid would stop me. 

 I had to have it sewn up, and started with a silver wire 

 in it. I met the others at Augsburg. Down to Linz, 

 where we were kept some time as an omnibus upset and 

 poor Greg was a good deal hurt. Then to Vienna and 

 down the Danube by Varna to Constantinople. The 

 bazaars very interesting. Then to the Dardanelles and 

 Hissarlik, staying some days at a little farm of the 

 Calverts in the Troad. I opened the so-called tumulus 

 of Hector at Bunarbashi. We went up Mount Ida, a 

 very long and tiring day. Then to Smyrna, from which 

 we reached Ephesus and Sardis. At Therapia I made 

 the acquaintance of Ralph Earle. In the Turkish burial 

 ground at Constantinople every flat gravestone had a 

 hole. Could it be to let the soul out ? The Dancing 

 Dervishes we thought very stupid, though it was odd to 

 see people with such a curious idea of religion. Midhat 

 Pasha the Grand Vizier was very civil, and gave us 

 recommendations to all the governors in Asia Minor. 

 He was very keen to get a railway from Tripoli to 

 Bagdad. Therapia we thought delightful. In the 

 Troad the Calverts were very good to us. We went to 

 stay at the Calverts' farm — Chiflik. On the way we 

 visited Hissarlik, but unluckily Schliemann was not 

 there. We got there first at sunset on our way to the 

 Chiflik. It was rather a wild scene, and at one point 

 some runaway camels suddenly joined us ! 



In the evening the jackals made very unearthly 

 noises. We had a guard consisting of a captain and two 

 or three other soldiers. I always regarded the captain's 

 gun as a sham, till one day to my great surprise he shot 

 a partridge. The Balidagh at Bunarbashi certainly 

 showed little signs of human occupation, though Hahn's 

 excavations and the walls of the old fort were clear 

 enough. The live rock, however, constantly came to the 

 surface. The view from the top was very pretty ; the 

 Scamander winding below, and occupying only part of 

 its bed which was fringed with willows. 



Sat. 12 Oct. — Started again to Hissarlik. I picked 

 up a good quartz hammer. Then to the tumulus 

 of Achilles, where G. D. and I bathed. Then to the 

 Sigaean point. The villagers brought in some execrable 

 wine. In the evening we sat on the terrace. From 

 the verandah on one side one sees low hills, then 



