ASCENT OF THE SILLA. 129 



contrary, conviviality, candour, uniform cheerful- 

 ness, and politeness of address, characterized the 

 natives of Spanish origin. The travellers found in 

 several 'families a taste for instruction, some know- 

 ledge of French and Italian literature, and a particular 

 predilection for music. But there was a total de- 

 ficiency of scientific attainments ; nor had the sim- 

 plest of all the physical sciences, botany, a single 

 cultivator. Previous to 1806 there were no printing- 

 offices in Caraccas. 



Believing that in a country which presents such 

 enchanting views, and exhibits such a profusion of 

 natural productions, he should find many persons 

 well acquainted with the surrounding mountains, 

 Humboldt yet failed to discover one individual who 

 had visited the summit of the Silla. But the gov- 

 ernor having ordered the proprietor of a plantation 

 to furnish the philosophers with negro guides who 

 knew something of the way, they prepared for the 

 ascent. 



As in the whole month of December the moun- 

 tain had appeared only five times without clouds, 

 and as at that season two clear days seldom succeed 

 each other, they were advised to choose for their 

 excursion an interval when, the clouds being low, 

 they might hope by passing through them to enter 

 into a transparent atmosphere. They spent the night 

 of the 2d of January at a coffee-plantation, near a 

 ravine, in which the little river Chacaito formed 

 some fine cascades. At five in the morning they 

 set out, accompanied by slaves carrying their instru- 

 ments, and about seven reached a promontory of the 

 Silla, connected with the body of the mountain by 

 a narrow dike. The weather was fine and cool, 

 They proceeded along this ridge of rocks, between 

 two deep valleys covered with vegetation ; the large, 

 shining, and coriaceous leaves, illumined by the sun, 

 presenting a very picturesque appearance. Beyond 

 this point the ascent became very steep, the ac- 



