VOYAGE DOWN THE APURE 179 



cipitation of which is constant during the day, but 

 generally ceases at night. The showers are more 

 violent, and accompanied with electrical explosions, 

 shortly after the maximum of the diurnal heat. 

 These phenomena continue until the sun enters the 

 southern signs, when the polar current is re-estab- 

 lished, because the difference between the heat of 

 the equinoctial and temperate regions is daily increas- 

 ing. The air of the tropics being thus renewed, the 

 rains cease, the vapours are dissolved, and the sky 

 resumes its azure tint. 



At San Fernando, Humboldt observed in the river 

 long files of cetaceous animals, resembling the com- 

 mon porpoise. The crocodiles seemed to dislike 

 them, and dived whenever they approached. They 

 were three or four feet long, and appear to be pecu- 

 liar to the great streams of South America, as he 

 saw some of them above the cataracts of the Ori- 

 noco, whither they could not have ascended from 

 the sea. 



The rainy season had now commenced, and as the 

 way to that river by land lies across an unhealthy 

 and uninteresting flat, they preferred the longer way 

 by the Rio Apure, and embarked in a large canoe or 

 lancha, having a pilot and four Indians for crew. A 

 cabin was constructed in the stern, of sufficient size 

 to hold a table and benches, and covered with cory- 

 pha-leaves. They put on board a stock of provi- 

 sions for a month, while the capuchin missionary, 

 with whom they had lodged during their stay, sup- 

 plied them with wine, oranges, and tamarinds. 

 Fishing-instruments, firearms, and some casks of 

 brandy, for bartering with the natives, were added 

 to their store. On the 30th March, at four in the 

 afternoon, they left San Fernando, accompanied by 

 Don Nicolas Sopo, brother-in-law of the governor 

 of the province. The river abounds in fish, ma- 

 natees, and turtles, and its banks are peopled by 

 numberless birds, of which the pauxi and guacharaca 



