57° 



MISCELLANEOUS. 



brushed over with alcohol and allowed to 

 dry; it is then immersed in a decoction of 

 campeachy wood for a few moments, 

 and the operation is repeated in ten min- 

 utes, and in ten minutes more it is brushed 

 over with a solution of green vitriol. If 

 the color is not dark enough a decoction 

 of fustic or quercitron is added to the 

 campeachy solution. Instead of sulphate 

 of iron the nitrate can be used with ad- 

 vantage. When the glove begins to dry 

 it is rubbed with olive-oil and soap-stone 

 and then laid between folds of flannel 

 and pressed. It is afterward again rubbed 

 with oil and soap-stone, and drawn on 

 the iron hand to dry. A brown is ob- 

 tained from fustic, campeachy, and cam- 

 wood, with the addition of some alum. 

 For bright colors the process is far more 

 simple, it being only necessary to paint 

 the glove with a brush or sponge dipped 

 in a solution of aniline dye of the desired 

 color. 



DYE, Bed. — The various shades of 

 red are given by madder, cochineal, lac- 

 dye, safflower, etc., fixed by aluminous or 

 tin mordants. Less permanent dyes are 

 produced by Brazil-wood, peach-wood, 

 and archil. Safflower contains a yellow 

 as well as a red coloring matter. The 

 first, being soluble in cold water, is ex- 

 tracted by putting the safflower in a bag 

 and kneading it under water. The 

 safflower, thus deprived of yellow matter, 

 yields its red color to alkaline liquids, at 

 the time of using which, lemon juice or 

 some other acid is added sufficient to 

 saturate the alkali. Pink saucers are 

 made by adding lemon juice to the 

 alkaline infusion of washed safflower, and 

 allowing the coloring to deposit. Mad- 

 der also contains a dun coloring matter, 

 which deteriorates the red, unless pre- 

 viously removed. This may be partially 

 effected by washing it in cold water; 

 another method is to treat the madder 

 with its own weight of sulphuric acid, 

 which carbonizes the other matters, but 

 leaves the red color uninjured. As mad- 

 der gives out but little of its red coloring 

 matter to water, the decoction is not 

 strained off, but the madder is left in the 

 bath. With acetate of iron madder 

 yields a purple tint. Lac-dye is imported 

 from India; requires acids for its solution. 



DYE, Bed-Brown.— Remarkably bright, 

 and the cost of the dye is not more than 



sixpence. For a middling-sized woman's^ 

 pelisse, when your copper boils, put in 

 the following dyeing-materials: Half a 

 pound of ground camwood, two ounces 

 of sumac (ground), one ounce of log- 

 wood chips, one ounce of elder-bark, 

 two ounces of chipped fustic. A larger 

 quantity of ingredients may be used, but 

 they must be in the same proportion as 

 mentioned in this recipe. When these 

 ingredients have boiled half an hour, 

 cool your copper by throwing in a pint of 

 cold water; put in your goods, and boil 

 from one hour to an hour and a half; 

 take them out, and add from half an 

 ounce to one of green copperas, a tea- 

 spoonful of powdered argol, take out 

 your goods, and rinse them in one or 

 two clean waters, and hang in the air 

 to dry; send them to the press to be 

 finished. 



DYE, Scarlet. — For one pound of 

 cloth, cream of tartar, one and three- 

 fourths ounce ; water, q. s. ; boil in block- 

 tin vessel, and when dissolved, add solu- 

 tion of tin (made by dissolving two 

 ounces of grain tin in a mixture of one 

 pound each of nitric acid and water, and 

 one and a half ounce of sal ammoniac) 

 one and three-fourths ounce; boil for 

 three minutes, then introduce the cloth 

 and boil it for two hours ; drain and cool. 

 Next, take cream of tartar, one-fourth 

 ounce ; water, q. s. ; boil, and add pow- 

 dered cochineal, one ounce ; boil for five 

 minutes, then gradually add solution of 

 tin, one ounce, stirring well all the time ; 

 lastly, put in the goods and dye as quickly 

 as possible. 



FEATHERS, to Dye and Clean. — 

 Feathers, to be dyed, must first be 

 cleaned by passing them through or be- 

 tween the hands, in warm soap and 

 water, and by giving them fresh liquors 

 of soap and water, and at last rinsing 

 them in warm water. Previously to their 

 being dyed, it is necessary that they 

 should be soaked in warm water for sev- 

 eral hours. The same degree of heat 

 should be kept up, but the water must be 

 but little more than blood-warm. If for 

 yellows or reds, they must be alumed in 

 cold alum liquor for a day or two, ac- 

 cording to the body of color you require 

 the feathers to imbibe; then immerse 

 them in your dye-liquor. 



The only difficulty in dyeing feathers 



