50 
Citrus and Tropical Fruit Culture 
A <well-de<veloped fruiting avocado orchard. 
left on for a month or more or until they have made 
some new growth. After this covering is remove .. 
tree protectors or some other covering should be put 
on the trunks and any exposed limbs should be either 
whitewashed or covered until sufficient top has been 
made to protect them from the direct rays of the sun. 
CULTURAL DIRECTIONS 
We are told that in the Tropics very little care is 
given Avocados, in fact, most of the trees grow in a 
comparative wild state; however, we must not as- 
sume that they will do well here under similar neg- 
lect, as our climatic conditions vary greatly from 
those of the Tropics, and therefore we must adopt 
methods more in accordance with those used in gen- 
eral orchard culture. It has been our observation 
that the Avocado orchards, where cultivation is prac- 
ticed and the soil kept free from weeds or other vege- 
table growth, show better growth than where they 
are allowed to grow more as they do in the country 
of their nativity. 
The Avocado is a vigorous growing tree, and 
therefore requires an abundance of moisture. Ex- 
cepting in very heavy soils, where the drainage is 
inclined to be poor, it is almost impossible to give 
them too much water. This does not mean, however, 
that irrigation should be continuous. On light soils 
an irrigation every two or three weeks during the 
warmest part of the summer will keep them in good 
condition provided, of course, the soil is kept well 
cultivated between irrigations. On the heavier clay 
soils they should only be irrigated every three or 
four weeks, depending on the weather. 
As yet but few growers agree as to proper methods 
of applying water and cultivation, no doubt due to 
the varied condition of the Southern California soils. 
A method that might be ideal in one section may 
prove to be entirely wrong in another, and thus it is 
more or less up to the individual planter to study 
his local conditions and treat his trees accordingly. 
In the lighter soils the basin system of irrigation 
works very satisfactorily. These basins are made so 
that no water will reach the trunk of the tree and 
large enough to give the entire root system a thorough 
irrigation. Usually the basin should be just a little 
larger than the top diameter of the tree. If straw 
is available the basin can be filled with it and this 
will act as a mulch, and it will not be necessary to 
hoe or cultivate around the trees after each irriga- 
tion. During the winter and after the irrigation 
season is over it will be advisable to cultivate in the 
basin and work the straw into the soil where it may 
be converted into humus and plant food for the 
tree the following season. 
On the heavier clay soils we doubt the advisability 
of using the basin system of irrigation, and think 
the furrow system, similar to that used in citrus 
orchards, will prove more satisfactory. Ordinarly 
we have sufficient rain so that winter irrigation is 
not necessary, however, it occasionally happens that 
due to irregular or a lack of rain, the trees may 
require some irrigation during the winter months. 
This would apply more particularly to trees of bear- 
ing age and during or just after the blooming stage, 
as the tree must not be allowed to suffer from want 
of moisture during the critical period, or the fruit 
will not set. 
FERTILIZATION 
This is another matter on which all planters are 
not agreed, some maintaining that the tree should 
not be fertilized until it comes into bearing, and 
then only very sparingly, while others advocate the 
use of fertilizer from the time the trees are' first 
planted. This difference of opinion we think is also 
due to the difference in soil conditions, and each 
advocate may be right in his particular locality. On 
