340 MATERIAL AND COLOR. 



uct of whose handicraft is of constant detriment to the influ- 

 ence of the underlying principles of an established standard. 

 For these reasons it is clearly to the advantage of any owner 

 who wishes to have what is right to patronize a tailor who 

 furnishes the livery for a customer who costumes his servants 

 correctly. The same advice applies to the purchase of mack- 

 intoshes, boots, hats, gloves, furs, etc. A good coat maker 

 is not invariably a good breeches maker and vice versa ; and 

 it is therefore important to patronize a man who succeeds in 

 his special branch of livery making. 



MATERIAL. 



All material should be chosen from good stock, not only 

 because it lends itself more readily to the hands of the fitter, 

 but it retains longer its texture and given shape. Such 

 qualities make the purchase of well woven material an econ- 

 omy, and if properly fashioned, the livery is a source of sat- 

 isfaction to the eye. Box-cloth is used for the greatcoat 

 (winter coat) and broadcloth for the body coat (light frock 

 coat). Leather, i. e., buckskin, is the material that should 

 be employed in breeches making, in preference to stockinette, 

 for reasons subsequently given. 



COLOR. 



The colors of the coats may be black, maroon, dark green, 

 dark blue or drab according to the owner's preference. As 

 the color of the livery should correspond with that of the box 

 seat or vice versa, drab should be avoided. Moreover liver- 

 ies made of this shade of cloth are not as simple or neat in 

 appearance and become easily soiled. When trousers are 

 used they should be of the same color and texture as the 

 coat. 



