A Child's Morris Chair 



THE drawing and illustrations arc 

 for a Morris chair suitable for a 

 child from six to twelve years of 

 age. A number of them have been 

 successfully made in the eighth grade of 

 New York City schools. 



With slight changes in the dimensions, 

 such as one inch added to the length of 

 the legs, and an inch wider and deeper, 

 the chair fits a boy or girl from twelve 

 to fifteen years of age. 



All the lumber can be bought mill- 

 dressed to exact dimensions, given below. 



Bill of Materi.\ls 

 Finished dimensions: 



Legs Ur 



Front and back 



rails 



Side rails ^4 



Arm pieces 3^" 



4 Slats (for sides) . . 

 2 Supports for seat.. 

 2 Stiles for back . . . 

 4 Rails (for back) . . 

 2 Front pieces for 



seat 



2 Side pieces for 



seat 



4 Brackets K 



I Stick (rest for 



f4 



w 



XI^" 



X3" 

 X3M" 

 X4" 

 xiK" 



X2'' 

 X2" 



X2" 



16' 



17 'A" 

 18" 



26^" 



7K" 



18" 

 9K" 



H" 



K<" 



X 12K" 

 X I5K" 



back) , 



^4 



18" 



I Dowel rod } 2" diameter 



The cost of all lumber and upholster- 

 ing, including a good quality of imitation 

 leather for the seat and back, amounted 

 to $1.75. 



Begin by laying out all mortise and 

 tenon joints on legs and rails. The 

 tenons are i A ins. long and the mortises 

 are }4 '"• from the outside of the legs. 

 The ends of the tenons are be\-eled, i in. 

 from the shoulders, so as to obtain the 

 largest possible gluing surface. The slats 

 at the sides are not tenoned but "housed 

 in," making the mortises in the rails 

 ver\- accurate. This extra care saves 

 the time which is required if tenons 

 are cut on the slats. 



The legs arc tenoned and project 

 J/g in. abo\-e the arms. Four 

 brackets shown in the drawing are 

 glued under the arms and help to 

 strengthen them. 



While the parts are gluing, the back 

 is made and assembled. The parts of 

 the back arc doweled and glued. When 

 finished it is hinged to the back rail as 

 shown in the drawing. This enables the 

 back to fold forwards as well as back- 

 wards, and prevents it from being 

 wrenched off. 



At the rear end of the arms are three 

 plugs which are mortised in, to a depth 

 of J2 in. in front of where the cross stick 

 rests which adjusts the back to different 

 angles. Great care must be taken in 

 laying out and gluing these plugs, as 

 they must be exactly the same distance 

 from the rear legs. 



To finish the chair, scrapie and sand- 

 paper all surfaces. Be sure to remove 

 all surplus glue. Choose color of stain 

 desired. An oil stain is the easiest to 

 apply and will give satisfactory results. 

 After applying the stain wait until the 

 gloss disappears, then rub down with 

 cotton waste. Allow the chair to dry 

 for forty-eight hours, then apply two 

 thin coats of shellac, and rub down with 

 00 sandpaper, 00 steel wool. A few 

 drop)s of sweet oil on the sandpaper will 

 improve the polish. 



The seat rests on cleats fastened to 

 the front and back rails. The cleat on 

 the back rail should be about an inch 

 lower than the one on the front rail. 



The seat is made as follows: Construct 

 a frame of material, 2 ins. wide and 



The Framework of the Chair Completed 

 To the Left is the Hinge Connection 



469 



