590 



I Buck Bros, firmer chisel J in. handled 



and sharpened. 

 I Hammond adz-eye claw hammer, 9 oz. 

 I Disston hardened blade try-square 



6 ins. 

 I beech marking gage. 

 I Buck Bros, outside bevel gouge i in. 



handled and sharpened. 

 I Buck Bros, inside bevel gouge 5 in. 



han<lled and sharpened. 

 1 box-wood rule, No. 2, 4 fold. , 

 I Disston sliding T-bevel No. 3, 6 ins. 

 I pair Starrett spring dividers 8 ins. 

 I bit file. 



I slim taper saw file 6 ins. 

 I rat-tailed wood file 8 ins. handled. 

 1 key- hole saw. 



1 Barbers rachct brace No. 33, 8 ins. 



sweep. 

 J niitre-box. 



2 Jorgenson hand-screws 10 ins. 

 I monkey-wrench 6 ins. 



I screw-driver 8 ins. 



I screw-driver 4 ins. 



I pair pipe-pliers. 



I pair side-cutting pliers. 



I hack-saw frame. 



6 hack-saw blades. 



I Stilson wrench 10 ins. 



I glass cutter. 



I nail-pull (nijipers). 



I Carborundum oil-stone, medium and 



coarse combined, in iron box. 

 I set Russel Jennings auger-bits 4, 16 in. 



5/16 in., 6/16 in., 7/16 in., 8/16 in. 

 I nail-set 1/16 in. 

 I set twist-bits 3/32 in., 4/32 in., 5/32 in., 



6/32 in., 7/32 in. 

 I Clarke's expansive bit ' in. to li ins. 

 I Taintor saw-set. 



The cost of the ec|iiipmciU lisictl, 

 without the bench, will be about $24. 



SuppleiTientar>' list of tools useful but 

 not iii(iisi)eiisal)lc: 



I l.angdon iron mitre-box with back-saw. 



I Barker iron vise. 



I pair Compton's metal snips No. 12, 

 2 ins. 



I foot-power grind-stone or No. 10 Car- 

 borundum tool-grinder. 



I saw-filing vise. 



The cost of this supplementary e(|iiip- 

 ment is about $20. 



Care of Tools 



One of the most common faults of the 

 bcRinner is to work with tools after lliev 

 arc (lull. All ed^cd tools should lie 

 sh.iriH'Ucd often and carefulK', in order 

 to keep iheni in jK-rfett condition. 



Popular Science Monthly 



Chisels and Plane-Irons 



These tools come ground to 20 or 23 

 degrees as indicated in I-"ig. 2. They 

 should be whetted on the medium side 

 of the oil-stone to an angle of 25 degrees. 

 I'se plenty of kerosene oil to prevent 

 burning the tool or glazing the cutting 

 surface of the stone. Rub over the 

 entire surface so the stone will wear 

 evenly. The whetting will raise a thin 

 wire edgj on the tool which can be 

 partially removed by turning the chisel 

 or plane-iron over on the flat side and 

 rubbing it gently back and forth on the 

 stone. It is very essential, however, that 

 the tool be kept perfectly flat during 

 this operation, as any bevel on the flat 

 side impairs its efficiency. If any rough- 

 ness rt'niains on the cutting edge it may 

 be renio\ed In- stropping on a piece of 



The bevel of a chisel as it is when new 

 and after it has been used for some time 



leather. After these tools ha\e been 

 whetted often the be\-els will assume the 

 shape shown in Fig. 3. In this case they 

 must be ground to restore the original 

 angle of 20 degrees. The giinding may 

 be done on a grind-stone or emery-wheel. 

 If neither of these is a\'ailable the 

 coarse side of the oil-stone will answer 

 the purpose. The cutter for the spoke- 

 shave may be sharpened in the same 

 way. The gouges must be shariu-ned on 

 a slii)-stone, that i.s, an oil-stone, shaped 

 to lit til,- ('ur\c of the tool. 



Saws 



Saws are divided into two classes: 

 those for rijjping and those used for 

 cutting across the gr.iin of the wood. 

 In the rip-saw tlii' teeth act like chi.sels 

 anil I hop olT the end grain, while the 

 cross-cut tooth is shaped like a knife, 



