Making Storm- Sashes from 

 Shutter-Frames 



THE owner of an old-fashioned house 

 which presented several examples of 

 architecture of a past age found a way to 

 convert the shutters into a modern con- 

 venience. 



He removed the slats, leaving the 

 frame of each pair intact. These frames 

 he fastened together at the meeting rails 

 with long wire finishing nails to each 

 piece. To further stiffen the frame, 

 so as to keep it in line, i in. of the lower 

 rail was sawed off and the space filled with 

 two J^- i n. 

 strips nailed 

 on at the top 

 and bottom. 

 All the blind 

 hardware was 

 removed. 

 The scars re- 

 sulting there- 

 from were 

 sm oothed 

 over with a 

 scraper and 

 sand paper, 

 and touched 

 up w i t h a 

 priming coat 

 of paint, after 

 which all 

 screw holes 

 were puttied 

 and blocks 

 were fitted in- 

 to the notches 

 made to re- 

 ceive the end of the lifting rod when the 

 shutter slats were closed. 



This comjjleted the frame except that 

 there was no rebate to support the glass. 

 Strips ^i in. wide and J4 in. thick were 

 procured and cut to the proper lengths. 

 These were fastened with brads around 

 the inside of each opening for the glass to 

 rest on when put in place. They were 

 given a pri-ii'ig coat of paint so that the 

 putty would adhere. The glass was ordi- 

 nary single strength, known as "B" grade. 

 This glass is not perfect, but it admits as 

 much light as any other grade and it is 

 inexpensiv'e. For the ordinary window, 

 four lights about 12 by 28 to 14 by 30 in. 

 are required The latter size has 1 7 lights 

 to the box; the smaller size, 20 lights. 



Popular Science Monthly 

 Old 



781 



Old-fashioned shutter-frames used for storm-windows 

 by substituting single strength glass for the shutter slats 



It will be necessary to cut these lights 

 in almost every case, as the openings in 

 the shutters are usually not made to 

 glass sizes. For this purpose the or- 

 dinary steel six-wheel glass-cutter will be 

 foiuid satisfactory. 



To cut the glass lay it on a flat-top 

 table, large enough to support it with a 

 margin all around. Pad the table sur- 

 face with 3 or 4 thicknesses of newspaper, 

 and on top of this put a sheet of stout 

 wrapping paper, on which draw two 

 strong pencil lines at exactly right angles. 

 The lines form the gage. One corner of 



the glass is 

 placed in the 

 angle and two 

 sides are 

 made to 

 agree exactly 

 with these 

 two lines. 

 The opening 

 should be 

 measured in 

 each case, 

 and the meas- 

 urement laid 

 off on the pa- 

 per so as to 

 be seen 

 through the 

 glass. This 

 should be 

 done for each 

 panel, as they 

 may vary 

 slightly in 

 size. Cut 

 about 1/16 to 3-^ in. scant of each meas- 

 urement to prevent the glass from bind- 

 ing in the frames. 



Use a strip of wood not less than } 2 in. 

 thick for a straight edge and have it 

 long enough to gage the longest dimen- 

 sion without shifting. Measure the 

 thickness of the cutter-block carrying 

 the wheels. Put the plain side against 

 the straight edge and allow for the 

 thickness of the cutter-block. Di|) the 

 cutter-wheel into turpentine and make 

 a quick stroke from end to end of the 

 glass. Never run over the cut a second 

 time. A piece of cardboard should be 

 provided having a thickness equal to 

 that of the glass. It should be placed 

 at the end of the cut to prevent break- 



