782 



Popular Science Mout/ilif 



age there. Cut both edges in this man- 

 ner; take the glass up in the hands with 

 one thumb on each side of the cut and a 

 folded first finger of each closed hand 

 underneath, then bend sharply upward. 

 The cut will part its entire length, clear 

 and clean. Out of 80 lights cut in this 

 manner only two were broken. Occasion- 

 ally a pane will appear to be cross- 

 grained and will not break clean. In 

 this case "nibble" the edge down with 

 a pair of flat nose pliers. Never use the 

 slots on the cutter unless you are ex- 

 pert in the use of them. Practice some 

 cuts on waste glass before starting to 

 cut the stock. 



After the glass is cut, it is set, fastened 

 with glazier's points and puttied in the 

 usual manner. To make it fit the 

 frame snugly so that it will be air-tight, 

 putty should be placed in the rebate 

 first before setting the pane, then each 

 pane is fastened by laying a glazier's 

 point on the surface and driving it in 

 with the side of a chisel, swinging the 

 bevel part back and forth in contact 

 with the glass. Do not set the panes 

 too tight or they may break. Some 

 allowance should be made for expansion. 

 If the putty is too stiff soften it by adding 

 some linseed oil and kneading it in the 

 hands. If too soft and sticky add a 

 little powdered whiting and work it in 

 the hands to the proper consistency. 

 When the joint is finisheil run the finger 

 firmly but lightly around on the putty 

 to smooth it and make it pack properly. 

 The touch is quickly learned after a few 

 trials. When the putty has set, say 

 48 hours, the glass should be cleaned 

 with alcohol and water and given the 

 final coat of i)aint. 



When this is dry the hanging operation 

 takes place. For all second-story win- 

 dows, hangers should be used. To 

 locate the hangers use a dummy frame, 

 to which hangers ha\'e been fastened 

 with screws in the proper position. With 

 this the hooks in which the hangers 

 engage are easily placotl on the window- 

 frame head without handling the hea\y 

 sash in each case. The lowi-r windows 

 may also have hangers if desired. 



Improvised hangers may be made of 

 brass screweyes turned into the inside 

 of each frame about 10 in. from the toj) 

 and Ijotlom in such a way that when the 



sash is in place a 4-penny nail, driven 

 through the screwe>e and into the side 

 of the window frame, will make a 

 tight fit. This, of course, makes no 

 provision for ventilation ; but a ventilatf)r 

 may be made in the bottom of each 

 sash by boring three i-in. holes side b\' 

 side. A shutter of galvanized iron 

 pivoted at one end, covers these holes 

 when required, or may be swung aside 

 on the pi\ot to open them. When open, 

 with the upper sash lowered, the desired 

 ventilation is obtained without draft. 

 A screweye, located opposite the pi\-ot, 

 could be turned to fasten or release the 

 metal shutter. 



The sashes on the upper windows 

 of the house in question were pro\ided 

 with hangers for ease in handling, and 

 they also had screwe>'es for fastening 

 the sash permanently. A button-hook 

 was used to pull the sash up tight, by 

 hooking it into the screweye while the 

 nail was being driven. When all were 

 in place the sashes were calked to the 

 frames to make them air-tight. Strips 

 of cloth about i in. wide were used. 

 These were pushed in with a thin-bladed 

 putty knife until no draft could be felt 

 when the hand was held to the calked 

 crack. 



If for any reason it is not desired to use 

 the blind frames as described, the 

 frames can be made from new material, 

 or that which may be gathered around 

 the scrap pile. An old hotbed sash will 

 furnish the material for a very satis- 

 factory storm-sash frame. It is not 

 necessary to use mortised joints. The 

 corner joints may be made with lappe<l 

 ends and the mullions nailed in place. 

 Of course, the buill-u]) frame will admit 

 more light than the one made from a 

 blind frame, but otherwise it has no 

 advantage. — H. S. Tallm.w. 



Getting Maximum Service from a 

 Typewriter Ribbon 



TVPi:\\Rrri£R ribbons that have 

 been worn out ma\' be used again 

 by making the ribbon double and 

 winding it on the spool, h will give 

 considerabK' more service and will write 

 with much of its original clearness. On 

 a typewriter that has average usage this 

 hint will save .several dollars in the 

 annual ribbon bill. — J. ARTHUR Ri:iii. 



