944 



Popular Science Monthly 



and a pair of oak jaws bolted or screwed to 

 it, to keep this spar close to the mast. 

 These jaws may be purchased with the 

 other fittings, or sawed out of ij^-in. oak. 

 For making the sails, heavy unbleached 

 cotton duck 8 oz. in weight is the most 

 satisfactory. The breadths of cloth are 

 first sewed together by lapping one edge 

 over the other for about ^4 in. with each 

 edge stitched close. The narrow-lapped or 

 bighted effect may be gained by folding 

 over a hem and double-stitching the same 



The small fittings required to connect the 

 parts of the ice-yacht described 



way as the regular seam. The laps must, 

 of course, run parallel with the leach or 

 after side of the sail, as shown in the sail 

 plan. To make the sail strong and ser- 

 \iceable, it is the usual practice of sail- 

 makers to sew 14^-in. rope (tarred bolt-rope 

 is the best) all around the sail. For hand 

 sewing on canvas, a diamond-pointed sail 

 needle and a sailor's palm will be required 

 to force the needle through the rope and 

 cloth. The stitch used is simple overcast- 

 ing. The seams of the sail itself may be 

 stitched on the sewing-machine, but the 

 hand-sewn sail is the strongest. At each 

 corner of the sail, sew on a semicircular 

 path to reinforce the sail at these points. 



The sail is attached to the mast-hoops 

 and gaff and boom through grommets. An 

 easy way to make these grommet-holes is 

 to procure about 3 doz., '^i-in. gaU'anized 

 iron grommet-rings. Punch a small hole 

 in the sail where the grommet-hole is 

 wanted, [ilace a ring on each side of the 

 hole and sew the ring to the sail by means 

 of an overcasting stitch, using waxed sail 

 twine and a sail needle. The reef-points 

 may be simply sewed to the sail, but the 

 sailor's wa\' of doing this, is to sew in J'2-in. 

 grommet-rings to reinforce the sail. The 

 reef-points are 6-in. lengths of cotton roi)e. 



About l^-in. twine may be used. The 

 sails should be cut at least 6 in. shorter 

 than the spars so that plenty of room is 

 left for lashing them after the sails have 

 stretched, which they are certain to do. 



The mast is stepped by squaring the 

 foot or heel as shown. To prevent the 

 end of the spar from splitting or check- 

 ing, drive on an iron band or ferrule. To 

 do away with wear of the mortise, cut in 

 the backbone to receive the mast. It is a 

 good plan to face the hole with a piece of 

 sheet brass. 



The mast-head is rigged as shown, 

 3)^ ft. from the top. A single-e>ed band 

 with eye to the rear or on the after side 

 of mast, is wedged on the mast - head. 

 The 4-e>ed band is wedged on the mast 

 6 in. from the top as shown. In the forward 

 eye of the top band, lash the end of the 

 J^-in. wire rope used for the jib-stay. In 

 the after eye, hook the 3-in. pulley-block, 

 to be used for the peak-halyards. In the 

 two side eyes, lash the ends of the }4-in. 

 wire rope used for the mainsta\s. In the 

 single-eyed band, hook the 3-in. pulley- 

 block for the throat-halyards, and in the 

 eye in the top band, underneath the jib- 

 stay, hook the 3-in. block for the jib- 

 halyards. 



Each end of the stay is lashed to the 

 eye of a turnhuckle, the jib-stay being 

 carried down to the top eye in the band on 

 fore end of backbone, and the two side 

 guys, or mast stays, carried down to the 

 eyebolt in the runner-plank on each side 

 of the mast. Before stepping the mast, 

 slip on the six mast-hoops, and the eight 

 jib-rings, and reeve the halyards through 

 the blocks on the mast-head. 



The rigging may now be set up taut by 

 screwing up the turnbuckles. The gaff 

 is kejit close to the mast by its jaws. 

 To prevent any jjossibility of the jaws 

 becoming unshipped — which is a common 

 occurrence — it is customary to bore a hole 

 through r.xch end of the jaws and run a 

 wire through. That the jaws ma>' slide 

 up the mast easih' without binding or 

 jamming, string a few round hardwood 

 l)eads on the wire after the jaws are in 

 position around the mast. These loops 

 are known as parrels, and the beads are 

 made of liginini-\itae. The ''i-in. size is 

 suitable for the purpose, and six beails will 

 suHice. 



The boom is fastened to the mast by 

 means of a fitting called a gooseneck. 

 These fittings are of wirions models, a good 



