Popular Science Monthly 



945 



one being shown at F. The mainsail 

 is secured to the mast-hoops tliroiigli the 

 grommct-rings, by seizing them together 

 with a few turns of marUn (which is 

 strong rope-yarn) or any strong twine. 

 The boom and gaff are laced to the 

 spars with 3'8-in- cotton cord, running 

 the cord through the grommet-holes and 

 around the spars. The jib is attached to 

 its stay by seizing through the grommet- 

 rings to the jib-rings and to the jib-boom 

 by lacing with cord. 



A good way to attach the jib-boom to 

 the stay is to screw an eyebolt in the end 

 of the jib-boom and connect this with the 

 eye in turnbuckle with a heavy split ring. 

 This will hold the foot of jib in place, and 

 allow the jib-boom to move freely. The 

 halyards should of course be lead aft to the 

 cockpit where the skipper can reach them 

 without leaving the cockpit. The best way 

 to do this is to screw a double or two single 

 pulley-blocks on the runner-plank 12 in. 

 from the mast, for the peak and throat- 

 halyards of the mainsail, and a single 

 block of the same size on the opposite side 

 of the runner-plank, for the jib-halyards. 

 The halyards may now be led aft and 

 belayed to a cleat, screwed on each side 

 of the backbone in the forward end of 

 the cockpit. 



The rope for pulling in and letting out 

 the mainsail — known as the mainsheet — is 

 best rigged up as shown. An iron rod, 

 known as a traveler, is screwed on the 

 after deck back of the rudder-post, and 

 a pulley-block is lashed to the ring on 

 the traveler. The rope is fastened to the 

 end of the boom, and is led through the 

 block on the traveler, up to two blocks 

 lashed to the boom and down to a block 

 screwed to the top of backbone, which 

 affords a splendid leverage, without putting 

 the blocks in the way of the steersman's 

 head when he is going about. 



The rope for controlling the jib — called 

 the jib-sheet — is lashed to the end of 

 jib-boom, thence led to a pulley lashed to 

 the guy-wire, and aft to the cockpit. 



All the fittings required are illustrated 

 in the drawing and ma>- be purchased from 

 dealers in marine hardware or yacht sup- 

 plies. The galvanized iron fittings are to be 

 preferred to the common black iron, owing 

 to their non-rusting qualities. The U-strap 

 bolts, the V-shaped spreader, the rudder 

 fittings, and the shoes for the runners, can 

 be made by any blacksmith, and will not 

 prove expensive. 



As a well-built boat of this type will last 

 for many jears of hard sailing, the craft 

 should be painted, for the sakeof appearance 

 as well as to preserve the woodwork. Red 

 or black paint gives a better effect than 

 other colors, but this detail is one of per- 

 sonal choice. An attractive way to paint 

 the boat is to finish the front of the back- 

 bone up to the runner-plank in spar- 

 varnish and the rest of the boat aft in 

 paint. The runner-plank may be painted 

 out to the guy-wire eyebolts, and the heads 

 of the plank and the runners finished in 

 varnish. The rudder-runner may be var- 

 nished also. The cockpit is painted, but 

 the oak combing will prove attractive if 

 finished "bright" — that is, in varnish. The 

 mast and spars should be well sandpapered 

 and finished in two or three coats of spar- 

 varnish. Bolt-heads and other fittings may 

 be touched up with ahmiinum or bronze. 



Preventing Exposed Water-Pipes 

 from Freezing 



EXPOSED water-pipes are apt to freeze 

 in winter, causing much anno^'ance, 

 which may be prevented by covering them 

 with the following mixture: To a solution 

 of thin boiled starch add sawdust until the 

 mixture forms a thick paste. A fine sieve 

 may be used to clear this sawdust from 

 lumps. 



Heavy cord is first wrapped around the 

 pipe, spacing the turns about J^ in. A 

 Jci-in. layer of the mixture is smeared on 

 and allowed to dry; then a second layer is 

 put on and smoothed up. The string acts 

 as an anchor to make the coating adhere to 

 the pipe closely. Whitewash or paint 

 may be used to give a finish for inside 

 pipes; but for outside work cover the 

 coating with hot tar. If it is desired to 

 have a very neat covering, wrap the saw- 

 dust coating with cloth or canvas, apply- 

 ing it in narrow strips like a bandage, and 

 painting the outside surface. An even 

 coating of the sawdust is necessary when 

 covering with cloth. — Thos. W. Benso.v. 



How to Handle Sulphuric Acid 

 with Safety 



DANGER is often encountered in emp- 

 tying sulphuric acid from a carton 

 into a small bottle. Procure a rubber stop- 

 per that will fit the neck of the carton. 

 Make a hole in the stopper to receive a 

 piece of rubber tubing. Pour the acid 

 through this. — J. H. C.\ssiDY. 



