34 CASUALS IN THE CAUCASUS 



Batoum is derived from the Greek, and means " deep 

 haven." A poetical and apt description, for the water 

 is immensely deep to the marge of the land. 



Everything looks very Turkish, in spite of Russian- 

 izing influences, and the town itself and its environs 

 do not rank as the healthiest of places. The quinine 

 habit is as general as in the Western States of America. 

 The marshes around have been drained, and health 

 stations established, but the mists and the mosquito 

 are ever present to spread malaria. All the Black Sea 

 coast is a hot-bed for fever, engendered by the swamp- 

 lands and tropical vegetation. 



We anchored close to the quay and were instantly 

 boarded by a little group of uniformed figures, all a- 

 glitter in resplendent white and gold, who fluttered up 

 the gangway like a bunch of fritillaries. We thought 

 the Head-quarters Staff at least had turned out en 

 masse to give us kindly greeting, but no — merely the 

 Customs, in most unaccustomed guise. 



Kenneth went ashore with our visitors to take our 

 passports to be vised afresh, and display the rifle per- 

 mits, the while we made ready to leave the fieshpots 

 for the cold, rough world outside. 



After a farewell banquet our host saw us off from 

 his yacht and from Batoum station, to which we drove 

 by a roundabout route so that we might, although it 

 was almost dark, get some idea of the extent of the 

 city. 



The first thing Russian town-planners set about is 

 the contriving of a popular walk where the inhabitants 

 may parade among bits of waste paper, fruit peelings. 



