TIFLIS AND ITS INHABITANTS 59 



wrapped about in the indispensable bourka, though 

 Tiflis in summer is not, one would think, quite the 

 moment for the wearing of it ! 



The good Caucasian loves his bourka — said to be the 

 chlamys of the ancients — above all his possessions. 

 It is a large cloak-like arrangement, and being enor- 

 mously thick and of a felt texture, though light for its 

 size, is waterproof to a surprising extent, A good one 

 costs about thirty roubles, or roughly, three guineas. 

 Now and again in mountain regions you see a white 

 bourka, but the majority are very black and rough- 

 surfaced. 



To the native his bourka is often tent, bedding, all ; 

 wrapped in one he defies the weather, and even holds 

 at bay the predatory domestic chamois of the Cau- 

 casian post-houses, the most voracious and energetic 

 insects in the world. 



Our hotel was extraordinarily civilized. I don't 

 quite know what we expected, but anyone who has 

 studied the subject of hotels in Southern Russia may 

 apprehend anything. 



Among the medley of nations staying in the 

 auberge there was only one other Britisher, but he 

 counted for a good many. He was a well-known 

 publisher from London Town, suffering from con- 

 versational over-pressure, and he converted us into 

 safety-valves. His object in visiting the Caucasus 

 was to discover if the real thing was anything like a 

 " Colour-book " he had recently brought out. So 

 far he hadn't recognized a single salient feature. 

 He said that there is no possible doubt but that the 



