TO THE HUNTING GROUNDS 93 



aren't allowed them in barrack quarters ; no real 

 kitchen fire, only a make-believe in a portable tiny 

 stove. 



Next morning we set off before the sleeping canton- 

 ment thought of waking up, and made our plans for the 

 day as we sat in our saddles surrounded by a small 

 group of early-bird soldiers who surveyed us with 

 interest, and — I must confess it — some amusement. 

 The English traveller in the great waste places of the 

 Caucasus is an astonisher. Why anyone, Alpine climber, 

 sportsman, or wandering nomad, should leave a com- 

 fortable home to take pot-luck in so rough a land is an 

 unfathomable puzzle to the Russian mind, and a 

 complete m^'stery to the native. 



Kenneth was anxious to descend on Telav by way of 

 a mountain track which he had had described to him, 

 but Cecily and I wanted to save our horses for days 

 of future effort, so were against this en I' air excursion 

 from the route planned. 



" You tak' the high road, 

 And I'll tak' the low road " 



settled matters. Ali Ghirik elected to remain with us. 

 He was, so far, a sombre, unsmiling individual, not 

 "used" to us yet, and, all-forgetful of his rough up- 

 bringing in the mountains of Daghestan, was inchned 

 to disapprove of the quarters allotted to him the night 

 before. The fleshpots of Tiflis were in his mind's eye, 

 and so filled his primitive landscape that our glorious 

 horizon was obscured. 



Our road zig-zagged up a mighty gorge, a sharp 



