122 CASUALS IN THE CAUCASUS 



We explored the recesses of the place, and in a 

 fusty corner, sunk to its neck in the earth floor, we 

 found a vast pottery jug similar to those we had seen 

 in the vineyards of Kakheti. Ali produced from a 

 rubbish heap a long-handled scoop with string attach- 

 ment, which we carefully let down into the depths 

 below. It was most exciting, this fishing in a kufskin, 

 like the mysterious delights of a bazaar lucky-tub at 

 home magnified a thousandfold. We hooked up all 

 sorts of oddments. Bits of cloth and quaint little 

 thread buttons, egg-shells, and, most wonderful find 

 of all, a ring of iron with five spiked teeth set round it, — 

 a dread implement which our servant said was always 

 worn in olden days on the right thumb by the Khevsur 

 tribe, who did great execution on the faces of their 

 enemies with it. 



Kenneth, tired of collecting relics, nothing daunted, 

 would drink of the residue ! He said it was excellent, 

 and free of the naphtha taste which permeates all wine 

 stored in the skin " bottles." 



There was nothing in the duchan to be purchased. 

 Far from its proprietor being able to supply us with 

 necessaries, we — in all humanity — had to contribute to 

 his comfort from our meagre stock. 



By the end of a big day we were over the frontier of 

 Daghestan, not a very rough Daghestan as yet, but 

 grim and grey enough. Travelling, as we purposely 

 did, off the better-known tracks reduced our chances of 

 meeting anyone. When we wished to make a halt for 

 the night we found that Yakimo and his mules, loaded 

 with our tents and sleeping kit generally, had lost 



