130 CASUALS IN THE CAUCASUS 



their faces to their eyes in nondescript coverings. The 

 veiled ones had it, for there are possibiHties in invisi- 

 bihty, and the actiiahty was rudely realistic. They 

 all wore py jama-like trousers, some tight, some loose, 

 tied in at the ankles. Top wrappings were in layers, 

 or else of bolster plainness, as the whim seized the 

 wearer. In wilder places we met both men and women 

 clad in primitive toga-robes of very " niffy " sheepskin, 

 and this levelHng kit made it difficult to sort out 

 t'other from which. 



Water in a wooden bowl was solemnly brought to us 

 by a handsome youth, whose eyes never left us, so 

 interested was he. We thought it was a drink offering, 

 and I was just stooping to swallow some of the rather 

 dirty liquid in obedience to — as we thought — local 

 custom, when Ali whispered wamingly " Wa-ash ! " 

 Only just in time ! We immersed our fingers and, 

 soapless, affected to clear away the dust of travel. 

 Towels were not. Time dried us. Next our Yuzbashi 

 had a vigorous go at the bowl, bobbing his head in 

 rather like a duck and splashing gaily. 



A feast of boiled mutton served on a large fiat loaf 

 made from barley meal, into which the husks were 

 ground, appeared. Carefully the Yuzbashi picked out 

 the largest and the fattest morsels and handed the 

 dripping portions to each of us in his fingers. Not to 

 be outdone in politeness we received them on the flat 

 of our hands. We ate alone. Like Shylock, our host 

 would talk with us, walk with us, and so following, 

 but he would not eat with us, drink with us, or pray 

 with us. 



