TRIP TO VLADIKAVKAZ AND KARBARDA 227 



mention names. There aren't any lovers there, because 

 there aren't any men, only hordes of old maids. 



Gaud was so delighted at the death of his love's 

 infatuation that he laughed and laughed until the 

 loosened rocks rained down into the valley like pebbles, 

 the very rocks which you can see for yourself to-day. 



" That was the result of the Mountain Spirit's 

 laughter," said the little yamschik solemnly. 



Crossing the Krestovaya Gora, or Cross Pass, 7977 

 feet above sea-level, we were on the undulating water- 

 shed of the Caucasus, with surprisingly little view, save 

 behind us. Mountains hemmed us in on every side. 



I always think " watershed " such an enigmatical 

 word. It is a conjurer too, and brings before your eyes 

 things it is not, and can never be. I like best Mr. 

 Belloc's definition of it. A child could understand it. 

 " All countries," he says, " are built in vast planes 

 which lean up against one another, and have ridges 

 between. The great rivers run in the hoUows where 

 these planes meet at their lowest, and the watersheds 

 are the lines along which their top edges come together." 

 Is it not a delightful explanation ? " The watersheds 

 are the lines along which their top edges come together." 



We were on " the top edge " of the Caucasus ! 



At the very highest point stands a large stone cross, 

 set to mark the altitude and to give point to the name 

 Krestovaya Gora. What an acquisition the majestic 

 title would be to the list of our suburban villa names ! 

 Krestovaya on one gate-post, and Gora on the other, 

 would put out of court all the other attempts at break- 

 ing the record. 



