OVER THE GREAT CHAIN 247 



All the icons occupied a sacred shelf farthest from 

 the door, facing the stove, and the Starshina told us, 

 when we questioned him, the reservation is called " The 

 Great Corner" or "The Beautiful Corner." 



Thus, only he "didn't know it, the pagan Slavs 

 kept their idols, just as carefully, just as reverently. 

 Paganism has passed. The sacred images, which were 

 enthroned in precisely similar fashion, have given 

 place to holy icons, which are to the moujik equally 

 mysterious, and almost alive — half-animates quite 

 capable of taking a hand in the intricate affairs of the 

 community. 



A tray of brown biscuits and saucers full of sour 

 cream were put before us, and presently a steaming 

 samovar and hot cakes of maize appeared. Then a 

 vast supply of boiled mutton made its appearance. 

 It was the truest hospitality. Our good host hovered 

 about us with the assiduity of a mother bird, pressing 

 food on us, heaping our glasses with sugar. When we 

 took two pieces as all-sufficient, he thought we were 

 economizing and would none of it. 



We were told that a change of horses had been sent 

 by the Prince for our use. He always returned this 

 way from civilization, it appeared. What a journey 

 to take ere one's country house was reached ! We had 

 still some twenty-five miles to go. 



An astonishing delay ensued, during which we held 

 a sort of Durbar, which all the inhabitants over four 

 years of age attended. 



Time lies forgotten in the Caucasus ; the natives, 

 and the Russians, are true Orientals, and simply do 



