THE PRACTICAL HORSESHOER. 39 



when not properly dressed. If the foot is healthy, fit the 

 shoe level at all points. If the horse is tender-footed, leave 

 the shoe off at the heels a little by bending- it, but.not by 

 cutting- the heels awa3\ 



Some smiths use a taper piece of iron heated red-hot for 

 burning the hoof at the heels away from the shoe after it is 

 in position. This is a most grievous error, and should not 

 be countenanced at all. Drive the shoe with the strongest 

 nails at the toe and the lightest at the quarter. Cut the 

 clinches with sharp pincers. Remove the broken hoof under 

 the nails slightly, and clinch with the hammer so as not to 

 start the nail back. 



Always use a good-sized clinching iron in preference to 

 the large pincers for clinching. Cut off the projecting hoof, 

 if there be any, with a sharp instrument made for that pur- 

 pose. Finish the hoof in a workmanlike manner, with the 

 rasp below the clinches, to the size of the shoe. Run the 

 corner of the file around the edge of the foot, so as to remove 

 the edge. Do not file the clinches too much, as it reduces 

 their strength. Finish with the fine-cut side of the rasp, or, 

 for fine work, with a fine, hardened file. It is preferable, in 

 all cases, to file as little as possible, but there are instances 

 where the rasp must be used, and in which the non-filing 

 argument is completely set aside. — By C S. 



A Country Blacksmith on Shoeing. 



Few blacksmiths comprehend what a complicated piece 

 of machinery the foot of a horse is. They do not realize 

 the fact that one careless blow will often stop the working 

 of this machine. Too many smiths Avhen paring the foot 

 cut down the heel and give the toe but little attention. I 

 can onl3^ account for this on the theory that the heel is the 

 most convenient part of the foot to work on. This paring 

 of the heel and braces of the foot causes in many instances 



